Powerbelt bullet ?

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casper

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Has or does anyone use powerbelt bullets in TC 1-48 twist barrels ?
 
I knew of one person that shot 295 grain Powerbelts out of a T/C Firestorm which had a 1-48 twist and they said it did real good. Just don't push them too hard. I shoot them out of 1-28 and 1-32 twist rifles. For instance, my Lyman Great Plains Hunter really likes the 295 grain Powerbelts.
 
casper said:
Has or does anyone use powerbelt bullets in TC 1-48 twist barrels ?

A power Belt will shoot very well from a 1-48 in my experiance, but there are so many better stronger projectiles out there including conicals that will also shoot very well IMO
 
I have taken numerous deer with a .50 T/C Hawken and Powerbelt bullets.
Like Cayuga said, don't push them too hard. I used the 405 grain slug in front of 70 gr. of either 2F or 3f Goex. This sort of equals the original 45-70 load of 70 grains behind a 405 grain bullet.
No deer hit properly with this load has ever staggered more than 10 steps before going down. Most have dropped in their tracks. Of course, due to failing eyesight, I limit my shots to no more than 50 yards. Like my Dad used to say, "If the shot is too far, get closer."
 
I have not. But I had some 1:48 twist barrels that shot Hornady 385 grain and 405 grain Great Plains conicals quite well. If I were going to hunt with PowerBelts in a .50 caliber, they would be the 405 grain Copper AeroTips.
 
From what I have seen powerbelts shoot very well in some guns, but very poorly in a lot of rifles. Results with powerbelts seem to vary from lot to lot as well. I think there are a lot of better bullets to chose from.
 
Dick's had a close out on muzzle loading supplies and there were some Power Belts so I bought all they had. I think, if I remember correctly, was 500.
I shoot several TC models and I can't get them to shoot as well as TC Maxi's do. I do think around 70 grs RS gives the best accuracy.
The accuracy was acceptable but not as good as other brands.
 
Re:

Semisane said:
I have not. But I had some 1:48 twist barrels that shot Hornady 385 grain and 405 grain Great Plains conicals quite well. If I were going to hunt with PowerBelts in a .50 caliber, they would be the 405 grain Copper AeroTips.

Sorry about resurrecting a thread from the dead, but can you give me an idea of what powder charge you used with the 385 gr Great Plains conical?
Thanks.
 
Re: Re:

Satokad said:
Semisane said:
I have not. But I had some 1:48 twist barrels that shot Hornady 385 grain and 405 grain Great Plains conicals quite well. If I were going to hunt with PowerBelts in a .50 caliber, they would be the 405 grain Copper AeroTips.

Sorry about resurrecting a thread from the dead, but can you give me an idea of what powder charge you used with the 385 gr Great Plains conical?
Thanks.


I have shot the Hornady Great Plains bullet in both a Stock 1:48 Twist, and a Fast 1:28 Twist with good luck, 80 Grains of Swiss 2F Powder worked very well for me in Both Twist Rates. If i were to try this bullet with a Substitute powder it would be 80 Grains of Triple Seven. I HIGHLY advise the use of an Over Powder Wad to create a solid Gas seal behind the Bullet, This also protects the Bullet Base from melting, Remember it’s the Bullet Base that Steers the Bullet, NOT the Nose. 1/8” Wool Oxyoke Brand is my “Go To” OP Wad material, in your 50 Cal try an oversize .54 Cal Wool Wad :yeah:
 
Re: Re:

Idaholewis said:
I have shot the Hornady Great Plains bullet in both a Stock 1:48 Twist, and a Fast 1:28 Twist with good luck, 80 Grains of Swiss 2F Powder worked very well for me in Both Twist Rates. If i were to try this bullet with a Substitute powder it would be 80 Grains of Triple Seven. I HIGHLY advise the use of an Over Powder Wad to create a solid Gas seal behind the Bullet, This also protects the Bullet Base from melting, Remember it’s the Bullet Base that Steers the Bullet, NOT the Nose. 1/8” Wool Oxyoke Brand is my “Go To” OP Wad material, in your 50 Cal try an oversize .54 Cal Wool Wad :yeah:

Thanks for responding. Is the OP wad critical? The reason I ask is because I’m already at my hunting area and I don’t have wads. Can I sub with a folded patch or other material? I am hunting with PRBs (missed a shot at last light tonight), so I can hunt with those again tomorrow morning and try to get some wads later (it’s a very small town so I’m not overly optimistic).
Thanks.

P.S.- I think I know why I missed - sheer stupidity. I got to the farm right at sunset. Only had 1/2 hour left and it was getting cold. Instead of my tested pillow ticking patch, I opted for a Traditions pre-lubed patch, which was thicker. I also went with 90 gr. instead of 70 (a last minute I-want-to-go-home-emptyhanded foolish decision). Tomorrow, I will use my proven accurate load.
At least I’m having fun and can’t wait to get out tomorrow.
 
I personally have had great success shooting slip fit bullets with no wad but you would have to experiment with your own rifle to see if this was a good option for you. I hunt a lot of open areas where I've been successful with several 100 yard shots and even a couple at 150. Nothing stellar, about 2-3" groups at a 125 yard target is the norm with 45 Caliber Omega (1-28" twist) using 420 grain bullets. I believe the original question was for a 1-48 barrel ,so again you will need to experiment with your rifle and at distances that you anticipate shooting.
 
Satokad said:
Is the OP wad critical?

For Patched Roundball No I don’t believe so. But I feel it to be VERY critical With a Lead Bullet, I believe it to be 1 of the Most important steps a person can take in achieving the best accuracy from their Rifle when shooting Bullets.

Think about it, You are lighting a Fire behind the Bullet, Most Muzzleloader bullets are Pure Soft Lead. Without an Over Powder Wad between the Powder and Bullet Base, What is Protecting the Base of the Bullet from the Fire behind it? NOTHING! And since the Base of the Bullet is what actually Steers it, it only makes sense that accuracy could be effected from a Melted/Deformed bullet Base.

The ONLY times i have EVER seen leading in a Muzzleloader Barrel is when i have shot a Lead Bullet without an Over Powder Wad behind it, and so far it has happened EVERY time i have tried it. On the Contrary, I have yet to see leading in ANY of my Barrels when i use an Over Powder Wad. I also feel this is more pronounced with Hotter powders like Swiss And Triple Seven, I tested my 1/8” Wool Felt Over Powder wads With Triple Seven 3F awhile back, The Triple Seven was ROUGH on the Wool Wads! But Accuracy was Very Good, That tells me the Wool Felt OP Wads Did Their Job, I can only imagine the Lead Mess i would of had in my Barrel had i NOT used an Over Powder Wad, Triple Seven was MUCH Harder on the 1/8” Wool Felt than my Swiss 2 and 3F Powder.

My most recent outing without using an Over Powder Wad was a Week ago in a New CVA Wolf, When Swabbing between Shots i was getting Lead on my patches, in my experience this happens down at the Breech end, about the first 2-3 inches the bullet travels. The reason i did not Try an Over Powder Wad in this Rifle is because it has a QLA type Muzzle, OP Wads in a TC QLA Muzzle Have Proven DISASTROUS for me in the Past. We we’re trying to get the Rifle Dialed in for an upcoming Elk hunt and only had 1 day, and of all things it was Raining! I simply did not have time to play around with the Rifle and Test OP Wads in it, i felt it was a Safer bet to Go without. Accuracy was Ok (3” or so at 80 Yards) Nothing Great in my opinion. It worked out in the End, the Guy killed his Elk.
 
The 385gr. Hornady Great Plains is a hollow base design and as such I wouldn't use a wad when shooting it. Powder charge will depend on what kind of powder you're using. Triple 7 or Swiss BP I would use 75-80gr. but Pyrodex or Goex Red can would be 90-100gr. Soft lead bullets shoot great at 1200-1300 fps. When velocity climbs over 1300 accuracy generally starts to fade as pure lead just too soft.
 
admiral said:
The 385gr. Hornady Great Plains is a hollow base design and as such I wouldn't use a wad when shooting it. Powder charge will depend on what kind of powder you're using. Triple 7 or Swiss BP I would use 75-80gr. but Pyrodex or Goex Red can would be 90-100gr. Soft lead bullets shoot great at 1200-1300 fps. When velocity climbs over 1300 accuracy generally starts to fade as pure lead just too soft.

They are actually a Shallower “Cupped” Base Bullet just like Several of my Paper Patch, A “Hollow” Base is REALLY DEEP, The Minie Bullets are “Hollow” Base, You definitely DONT want to use an Over Powder Wad of Any kind with a Minie. But a Cupped Base like these Hornady Great Plains is perfectly fine, It is precisely how i shot them. I can’t stress enough how important i feel it is to Protect The Bullet Base from Damage, This is For best possible Accuracy, And to keep from Leading your Barrel, No matter what the Velocity is. Triple Seven would SCORCH the @ss right off these Bullets without an Over Powder Wad. Go Wool, and up a Size, Shoot .54 Cal 1/8” Wool in your .50
 
Idaholewis said:
They are actually a Shallower “Cupped” Base Bullet just like Several of my Paper Patch, A “Hollow” Base is REALLY DEEP, The Minie Bullets are “Hollow” Base, You definitely DONT want to use an Over Powder Wad of Any kind with a Minie. But a Cupped Base like these Hornady Great Plains is perfectly fine, It is precisely how i shot them. I can’t stress enough how important i feel it is to Protect The Bullet Base from Damage, This is For best possible Accuracy, And to keep from Leading your Barrel, No matter what the Velocity is. Triple Seven would SCORCH the @ss right off these Bullets without an Over Powder Wad. Go Wool, and up a Size, Shoot .54 Cal 1/8” Wool in your .50

Do you use the dry or lubricated Ox-Yoke patch?
Thanks.
 
Satokad said:
Do you use the dry or lubricated Ox-Yoke patch?
Thanks.

The ones i get from Buffalo Arms say Lubed with Wonderlube 1000 plus, they use such a small amount that I cannot even tell they are Lubed, i have squeezed them between my fingers trying to see if i could get any out? I get nothing. For Elk season this year my rifle had been loaded for a full month with 1 of these Oxyoke Wool Wads, My rifle had been in and out of my house after my Hunts Daily for a Week in very Cold weather (Teens and 20s) When i finally pulled the Trigger on my Elk, i took it home with me :yeah: I have ABSOLUTE faith in these Oxyoke brand 1/8” Wool Wads.

These are the ones i get, the Wads on the Bottom are “Hard Card” Nitro Cards by Circle Fly (they are actually for Shotgun) I have had VERY mixed results with them, therefore i rarely use them. The Wool Wads on the other hand work perfectly everytime.
SWt1PMMl.jpg
 
45cal said:
Have you tried walters Veg wads

I have, They work Fine with my Paper Patch bullets, But not so great with my Grease Groove bullets, they are about like the Nitro Cards Above, Hit & Miss. I believe they are sticking to the Base of Grease Groove Bullets from the melting Lube as they travel up the Bore, And Since the Base of our Bullet is what actually steers it, a Wad stuck to the Bullet Base would Throw the Bullet off. The BPCR Guys Use Ultra Thin Newspaper punched Wads between the Vege Fibre and Bullet Base to Aid in Seperation upon Exiting the Bore. I have only tried/tested that 1 time and it worked Very well
I came across a deal on a Large supply of Bulk Vegetable Fibre Material in .060, I decided to Buy a Press Mounted Cornell Wad Punch for .45 Rifle, i have made up a BUNCH of them. In the end, 1/8” Thick Wool Wads have been the Clear Winner for me, I can count on them EVERYTIME, and they work equally well with my Paper Patch, or Grease Groove.
 
Re: Re:

Idaholewis said:
Satokad said:
Remember it’s the Bullet Base that Steers the Bullet, NOT the Nose. 1/8” Wool Oxyoke Brand is my “Go To” OP Wad material, in your 50 Cal try an oversize .54 Cal Wool Wad :yeah:

Not sure why I didn't catch this earlier, but why a 54 wad instead of a 50?
Thanks.
 
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