Sabot vs Conical

[Buck]

Okay I do some reading and finally get with the program somewhat. I shoot the Encor Pro 50 caliber.

1. Is the sabot merely an easier method of shooting inlines?

2. Is the conical a better overall flight path and bullet for expansion?

3. If #2 is correct, why should I use the sabot?
4. Do I care about conicals if the SW super glides are working?

5. I see most of the bore sizing and talk concerns the White rifles, is this because they are more for range type shooting and in a controlled setting?

6. If the tolerance of a sabot is .500 - .502 is it good enough?

8. Do I need to worry about the above if i'm shooting groups w/ 110 grains T7 and the 250 grain SW super Glides or is there something out there I am missing and could get better with?

7. Where do I look and go to get educated on this stuff?

I hunt mostly but want to shoot at my range well. The guys are shooting black guns and sort of sneer at the old front loader, but I think by reading here that I can show them a thing or two w/ a FLoader.

I appreciate all you guys and your ideas, advice etc. It is making it easier for me to get better. Sorry about jumping in pn that other post, but I am very curious about this subject of bores and all the dioameters you all throw around.

Thanks

 

[Cajun]

It all depends on what type game and range you plan to hunt, as well as staying with in the laws of the state you are hunting in. I have to hunt with conicals so until I find one that works in my gun, I'm not shooting any sabots. I have an omega. I did shoot 4 of the 5 250 gr. S.W. that came with it. It shot those good but it won't do me any good in hunting season. You will do better at longer ranges with sabots over conicals.

 

[MLKeith]

. You will do better at longer ranges with sabots over conicals.[/quote]

That may not always be true. If you have a conical that shoots well in your rifle and you know the trajectory the heavy conicals will have more down range punch than a lighter "pistol bullet". It is true that the lighter bullets fly a lot flatter but with muzzleloaders even the light bullets have a lot of curve to the trajectory so shooting a lot at distance makes them about even for accuracy. At least that is my thinking.

 

[jaybe]

Those are a lot of good questions. Many people just find something that works well and stick with it; others like to try everything they can get their hands on just for the fun of doing it. If the SW's with 110 gr T7 work well, you might want to consider that your base load. From there, you can try other bullet and sabot combinations and also some conicals. Be aware that you can spend a lot of money this way. Some bullet/sabot combos may not even go down your barrel without excessive effort. Some may also be too loose to be accurate, etc, etc. If you buy a box of bullets and sabots and then can't use them, you can end up with a lot of stuff that you never use.

Good Luck

 

[Buck]

bullets and costs

I understand all your comments and apprciate info. Maybe Lungbuster has the right idea in the comments section about setting up a online swap meet for bullets? I just gave away full pack of buffalo bullets, full pack of platinum power belts and T7 pellets to a friend. I would have swapped em' out for something different if I had the opportunity.

 

[Anonymous]

Buck

What type of gun are you shooting
are you shooting loose powder or pellets
what range do you expect to be hunting ( longest shot )
are you useing a scope
what do you consider as a good group with tha shockwaves 1" - 2" - 3"
if you could give a little mor detail we could help a little better

 

[Buck]

Shooting Specs

This is a new rig and reading this site has me wondering how good I can make this shoot,
1. TC Encore Pro w/T hole (bought the wolf, loved shhoting it traded a lot of guns and got this rig)
2. 120 Grains of T7 loose. Started and stayed there.
3. Shooting out to 200 (rare, I hunt some strip mines) probably 100 or less on most shots. Want to target shhot some as well. Half the fun is poking a stick in the black gun and CF guys.
4. I use the Nikon Omega scope (old eyes)
5. 1-2 inches would be nice
6. I am using the 250 SW super glide right now. I am shooting 3" high at 50 yard range, have hads no opportunity to shoot 100. At 50 I am 3-4 inches.


Thanks for any help Lungbuster

 

[Anonymous]

Buck

The T C pro hunter is a good gun, Although I have not had any expereance with that gun I do know that that gun should be driveing tacks at 100 yds.
This is just my thought , I would try this DROP your powder charge down to 80 to 95gr I think that you may be trying to push that 250gr to fast or you may also want to try some 200gr shockwaves with the blue sabots and try the 250gr shockwaves with the reg. black sabots insted of the super glide sabots , I have read that the 200gr SW perforums very well with the higher powder charges like you are shooting now, also try some of the PARKER BALISTIC EXTREME in a 275gr with 100gr of powder. OR try some of the 250gr BARNS SPITFIRE TMZ with 90gr of powder.

AS far as sighting in I would sight it in to hit no more than 1" high at 50yds


RON G.
LB1

 

[Underclocked]

You might also try relieving any forearm pressure on the barrel aside from at the mounting points. Washers are a quick means to experiment. Encores tend to be fussy about forearm pressure changes.

Aside from that, Lungbuster's advice sounds very reasonable. I would take the charge down in small steps, perhaps first try 110 grains.