t/c hawken percussion lock "Upgrade"

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exarcher

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I've read that there are upgrade locks for the t/c "Flint" model. (much better than what came on it) Is there an "upgrade" for the percussion lock? or is whats on them good as one gets?? Just wondering... If so,, who makes them???
 
I've read that there are upgrade locks for the t/c "Flint" model. (much better than what came on it) Is there an "upgrade" for the percussion lock? or is whats on them good as one gets?? Just wondering... If so,, who makes them???
I have been told by many shooters, L & R make locks which are a lot better than the originals.
This is just a quick search on Track to see what came up. They show 2 locks which may be important to you.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Search.aspx?search=t/c replacement locks
 
i think i looked at the "flint" version having heard very good things about that model... Thanks much,,, I think i will try one eventually!! (maybe sooner!)
Just a word of warning. The L&R locks are not drop in replacements for the T/C locks. Wood needs to be removed from the lock mortise to fit the leaf spring (T/C guns have coil springs), and sometimes the the lock plate needs to be filed or the mortise opened up to fit the lock properly.
 
The only difference between the early TC flint locks which some find cranky and the newer ones is the angle of the cock. Try to find a newer cock, that might fix your problem. Would be a lot cheaper and less hassle.
 
I replaced my TC Hawken lock with a L&R after the fly wore out on the old one. Easy swap, just a little bit of whittling to get it to fit.
 
I replaced my TC Hawken lock with a L&R after the fly wore out on the old one. Easy swap, just a little bit of whittling to get it to fit.
You got lucky. Some L&R replacement locks require quite a bit of work to get installed correctly. I believe it depends on the version of the T/C stocks. Older ones are harder to install the RPL locks.
 
I have a T/C percussion lock that's pushing 50 years old and it still has a srtrong spring. I can't imagine paying much $$ to get a tiny bit of performance(?) from a different lock. Quite frankly until coming to this forum the idea of swapping out factory parts was unknown to me and never figured I needed any better anyway.
My suggestion is to search some posts about taking your lock apart and polishing the bearing surfaces and you will have pretty well done the best that rifle can do without trading bucks for milliseconds.
 
I must be strange. I've not had significant issues with T/C locks, flint or percussion. Some minor and easily fixed issues, but nothing major and certainly not enough to make me spend $. They are production locks after all.
its not strange,, i think these problems only show up with the extreme use/stress seen with people who are serious competitors,, or shoot high volume number of shots.... so probably most shooters never have a problem ever...
 
I have a T/C percussion lock that's pushing 50 years old and it still has a srtrong spring. I can't imagine paying much $$ to get a tiny bit of performance(?) from a different lock. Quite frankly until coming to this forum the idea of swapping out factory parts was unknown to me and never figured I needed any better anyway.
My suggestion is to search some posts about taking your lock apart and polishing the bearing surfaces and you will have pretty well done the best that rifle can do without trading bucks for milliseconds.
I too see no real need to change the T/C percussion locks, but the flint versions can be improved considerably with the L&R replacement. T/C had geometry issues with the flint lock. They offered an upgraded cock to correct some of the issues, but by then their problems were well known.
 
I have a T/C percussion lock that's pushing 50 years old and it still has a srtrong spring. I can't imagine paying much $$ to get a tiny bit of performance(?) from a different lock. Quite frankly until coming to this forum the idea of swapping out factory parts was unknown to me and never figured I needed any better anyway.
My suggestion is to search some posts about taking your lock apart and polishing the bearing surfaces and you will have pretty well done the best that rifle can do without trading bucks for milliseconds.
you can find replacement springs too..
 
I replaced the spring on my T/C flintlock with one from a Lyman lock. The Lyman spring is slightly longer. I had a bugger of a time getting it in place but it increased my lock time and increased the amount of sparks into the pan. I must have this lock for 20+ years and it always goes on my favorite T/C flinter I have at the time.
 
I replaced the spring on my T/C flintlock with one from a Lyman lock. The Lyman spring is slightly longer. I had a bugger of a time getting it in place but it increased my lock time and increased the amount of sparks into the pan. I must have this lock for 20+ years and it always goes on my favorite T/C flinter I have at the time.
do you mean "decrease" lock time?? never heard of making lock time slower,, but i've never "flint locked" either??
 

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