TC Renegade hammer issue

[Willfish4fud]

I ran across a nice TC Renegade in .50 cal. There is no makers mark on the barrel so I know it isn’t the most desirable version but the gun looks new. Not one mark on stock. The bore is perfect and outside metal has no issues. Set triggers operate as they should. I’d love to have it ($200) but the hammer does not lock when you pull it back. Not on 1/2 or full cock. The spring tension feels right it just doesn’t lock. Just to be clear, when I pull the hammer back if I don’t hold it it will slam onto the nipple. Any ideas on the needed repair n cost to do so? Thanks

 

[Semisane]

It may not cost anything to repair. You won't know until the lock is removed to see what's going on. It may even work just fine when taken off of the stock, indicating it's binding in the mortise or perhaps even tightened down too much or improperly installed with the sear bar pushing against the trigger. If it doesn't work correctly outside of the stock there are a number of things to check; the internals may be gummed up with dried oil and just need a good cleaning, the screws holding the bridle could be loose (a common problem with TC locks), the sear spring could be missing or stuck in a compressed state, the tip of the sear could be broken, or both the half-cock and full cock notches on the tumbler could be damaged (seems unlikely that both would be damaged).

Anyway, if the sear spring is missing or there's damage to the sear or tumbler it's likely Thompson Center will send you a new one. About six months ago I dropped the sear spring from one of my Renegade locks in the grass under the shooting bench on our rifle range, and could not find it. I emailed TC asking how to order a new one and they sent one gratis in just about a week.

I would not let a non-functioning lock on a Renegade stop me from buying a gun that's otherwise in good shape. Heck, it's a bargaining chip...….."Aw man, the lock on this thing is broken, and getting it fixed or replacing it could be pretty expensive. Tell you what, I'll take a chance that I can fix it if you'll let it go for $150." If bargaining doesn't work, it's still a good buy at $200.

 

[Idaholewis]

Semisane gives good advice :yeah:

It can’t be much to fix it!!! In fact I’d bet if i had ahold of it for a few minutes it would be fixed :yeah: These things are RIDICULOUSLY easy to work on! My bet is the little adjustment Screw between the 2 Triggers is in to far (that is how you adjust the Trigger) I just recently fixed a similar issue, it turned out that the Bridle was in a Slight bind. Like i said these Renegades/Hawkens are EASY to work on, They are my absolute favorite Sidelock :yeah: and at 200 bucks if it’s in Super good shape that’s a good deal!

If the Serial number starts with a K it is a Kit Gun, it will have a Stamp under the Barrel by the Wedge Key Lug, it will likely have an M stamped in it, if it is a really Old one it can be a Cross, Spade, Diamond. Does the Riflings come all the way up to the Crown? Or does it have a QLA Muzzle? A QLA muzzle will have no Rifling for a 1/2” or so, designed for easy loading of Maxi Balls and Such. I am not a Fan of TC’s QLA Muzzle, not very many folks on here are, Doesn’t mean the Rifle won’t shoot good though.

 

[Willfish4fud]

Thanks for the info. I saw no mark of any kind on the bottom of the barrel. Serial number was six digits starting with 27. Not sure about rifling coming all the way to the end. I studied the bore with a light but didn’t look for that.

 

[bubba.50]

Along with the advice already given, check the two little screws of the bridle plate. They’re semi-notorious for workin’ loose and allowin’ the sear to wobble around & not work properlyto engage the tumbler notches.

 

[Idaholewis]

Thanks for the info. I saw no mark of any kind on the bottom of the barrel. Serial number was six digits starting with 27. Not sure about rifling coming all the way to the end. I studied the bore with a light but didn’t look for that.

Go get that Rifle! It will be EASY to fix. You won’t regret owning a Renegade :yeah: Like Semisane said, Maybe try and Haggle the price down a little more since the Lock isn’t working properly, 200 is a REALLY good deal for a Nice Renegade anywhere around these parts

 

[Willfish4fud]

I’m pretty much sold on it. Already haggled from $265 to $200 due to issue. Thanks again for the replies

 

[Idaholewis]

I’m pretty much sold on it. Already haggled from $265 to $200 due to issue. Thanks again for the replies

When/if you get it and you cannot figure it out, Send me the Lock in a Padded Envelope, i will Fix, and Clean it for ya. I’ll Have it Running like a Fine Swiss Watch! :yeah: I have enough parts here to build a few TC Ren/Hawk Locks

 

[Willfish4fud]

Idaholewis that’s a very generous offer. Be careful, I may just take u up on that.

 

[Idaholewis]

Idaholewis that’s a very generous offer. Be careful, I may just take u up on that.

No problem! Like i said they are SUPER EASY to work on. If you end up with the Rifle you can call me and i will walk you through the Steps to check it, i bet we can fix it over the Phone :yeah: Check your PM’s, i just sent you my Number

 

[Willfish4fud]

Idaholewis I got your PM but can only reply here as I am new. Sounds good and thanks

 

[Idaholewis]

Idaholewis I got your PM but can only reply here as I am new. Sounds good and thanks

I forgot about that! You need a certain amount of Posts if I remember correctly? Stick around and Visit, this is a Good Forum with LOTS of knowledgeable folks willing to help out :yeah:

 

[Harleysboss]

Willfish, Idaholewy is good people. If he offers to fix that lock it will be fixed in quick fashion and done right. I've seen his collection of TC parts! If he don't have it, it wasn't made. LOL

 

[Willfish4fud]

The gun was sent to the gunsmith before I could get back. So we will see.
If not this one I still intend to get a .50 renegade. What are some recommended loads/starting point for that gun? Conicals not round balls. Idaholewis I’d PM about this if I could
And I’d love to be able to use triple 7 fffg since I have it on hand

 

[Idaholewis]

The gun was sent to the gunsmith before I could get back. So we will see.
If not this one I still intend to get a .50 renegade. What are some recommended loads/starting point for that gun? Conicals not round balls. Idaholewis I’d PM about this if I could
And I’d love to be able to use triple 7 fffg since I have it on hand

You have a few good Conical choices. The TC Maxi Balls were designed by TC for their Guns (1:48 Twist) Lee makes a Bullet mold Called a R.E.A.L. (Rifling Engraved At Loading) And Lyman Makes a Mold that I consider the best of them, it is the Great Plains Bullet. I have a Stock 1:48 Twist TC Hawken in .54 Cal that has shot EVERYTHING I’ve thrown at it well, even my Largest Custom Bullet molds well over 500 Grains. Hornady sells a ready made Bullet for the 50 and 54s Called a Great Plains, i have only shot them a few times, they did Good for me. The Hornady GP Bullet is a Hollow Point design

When you get a Rifle i will help ya get it to Shoot. I have a BUNCH of different bullets, From Stock Molds, to Custom, And From Grease Groove, to Paper Patch. If i were you, i would try and find a .50 Cal, Nothing Wrong the .54s! I have SEVERAL of them, But i feel the .50 is the Better choice, at least for Bullet selection. If you are not limited to Caliber, i would HIGHLY advise a Nice .45 Cal, if i could own only 1 Muzzleloader and it were legal to Hunt Elk with, It would UNDOUBTEDLY be a .45 Cal :yeah: The .45 Cals are very Versatile, They Can do EVERYTHING, and even more than the Larger Bores, And are Much more Fun Recoil Wise

 

[Willfish4fud]

Thanks. I’ll def get with you when the time comes. I hunt whitetail in Mississippi and can use anything. But for elk in CO it has to be .50 so that’s what I’ll be looking for. Honestly I would get both if I found a .45 I like