sorry, all my guns are sold and there are pictures on cast bollits but i cant say where. when you sand sand with the grain. never ever against it. you will never get those cross grain scratches out. when you use watco oil as a first coat, thin it down and always wipe the excess off no later than a 1/2 hour after application. it will sink deep and make the wood hard and durable. i no long use poly in a can for the top coat. i find a spray can of the very best high end acrilic clear top coat car spray is much better. i get it at a high end auto parts store. when your finish is to the point of watco and all the wood can hold then go to the spray. remember you can not build up watco on the surface, it is only for penatration and then again wipe clean in 1/2 hour and let dry before repeat. when you use the spray, just mist a little at a time. you do not even have to build up a layer. mist a few times and make sure you let it dry really good before you slightly mist again. it you should get a run. use 600 grit emery paper to smooth it out. when done rub down with rotten stone powder on a soft pure cotton flannel cloth. when smooth and nice got to HUTS plastic polish on a cotton flannel cloth. after that a high end paste floor wax. if your into rust browning or rust blueing your barrels of metal part. when they are done, clean and still warm work in the same good floor paste wax you put on your stock. it will seal metal and make it rain proof also. pay special attention to the nose of the forestock the but under the butt plate and the top of the wrist. those area will take alot more watco oil to seal for good. you want those area sealed as then they cannot draw water from the air or from where ever. i go so far a the area under the butt plate is sealed with layers of super glue, then sanded down to the wood. then that area will never ever allow moisture to go into the stock and your stock will be real stable. remember, take your time and do each step perfectly before you move to the next one. if the lock area and places on the stock shrink while your working on the stock just open them up carefully with 220 grit emery paper. go easy and take your time. sometime precut stocks srink when you work on them beech is a very very tough wood but it really has a tendency to shrink alot when your working on it. denver and my high dry area is bad for shrinkage. low coastal areas, not so much. thats why you want to seal then ends of stocks and at the wrist,so it will never shrink or expand again. any questions, please ask. my family background is custom furniture makers that go back hundreds of years in France. wood and finishing it is in my blood. remember, it is not rocket science. just a series of facts to follow.
