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That's how my Lyman GPR caplock looks as well.  Sort of annoying that I have to go to full cock to cap it, then pull the trigger and ease it down to 1/2 cock for stalking or sitting etc.  I plan to upgrade my gun at some point to an L&R lock and be done with it.
 
Palehorse said:
I do not really fancy taking the lock apart, much less putting back together and 'owning' the result.
Trust me, disassembly of a lock is not a difficult task.  Everyone who shoots a muzzleloading rifle should know how to disassemble their lock.  You will need two tools, a main spring clamp and a set of gun screwdrivers.  Someone may try to tell you to remove your main spring with a set of vise grips.  Don't, you can damage your main spring.  Don't use regular screw drivers to work on your gun.  Gun screws are different from regular screws in that they have parallel sides in the screw slots.  If you use regular screw drivers on your gun, you will booger up the screws.  Both tools are not all that expensive and you should have both on hand.  Here is a pretty good tutorial on how to disassemble your lock.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=di4VhHeUxgo  Besides, you live in Indiana which is one of the Meccas of muzzleloading.  There is bound to be a muzzleloading club in your area and those members will be glad to give you all the help you need.  I used to live in Seymour, IN and there were three muzzleloading clubs not far from there.  I am an Honorary Life Member of The Fish Creek Long Rifles muzzlerloading club in North Vernon, IN.

As far as getting better accuracy from your rifle, first I highly recommend getting a copy of Dutch Schoultz accuracy system.  Go to www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com and order as copy of his system.  It's only $20 and it will be the best $20 you will ever spend on your muzzleloading hobby.  Next, 1:48 is a traditional twist rate and has been in use for many years.  Many of the original Hawken rifles had the 1:48 twist rate.  You are likely over loading your rifle and causing the ball to travel through the bore too fast to properly grip the rifling.  This causes an odd spin to the ball resulting in poor accuracy.  You will find that a charge of 3f powder ranging anywhere from 50 to 80 grains will do all that you ask of it in a hunting situation out to 100 yards.  Use a good patch.  I have found that for most of my rifles a patch made of 100% cotton drill is perfect.  I buy my cotton drill from JoAnn's fabrics.  Ask them for 100% cotton drill that is used for making pockets.  It measures about .015 inches.  As for lube, you might try using something that is both cheap and very good and that is plain old olive oil.  Just moisten your patches with it, you don't want them too wet.  Read Dutch Schoults accuracy system concerning how to lube your patches.  I can't recommend his system too highly.  It is an excellent investment.
 
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