My New Lyman GPR 50 Cal.

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Hylander

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Received my new GPR yesterday  :D
Awesome fast shipping from Hinterland Outfitters, also best price I could find.
Package arrive in great condition.
The Good:
The bore, this is nicest smoothest bore I have ever seen in any rifle at any price, not a single machining mark.
Bluing is deep, dark and even.
Most wood to metal fit is very good, no gaps and fit is snug.
The Bad:
Wood finish is dark in color but thin and a lot is coming off just from handling.
The ram rod is cheap wood with nearly no finish.
Wood around tang is pretty proud.
Barrel to forearm fit is a bit off, with barrel fitting snug on the left side.
Barrel wedge pins could be just a bit longer.

What I plan to do to it:
Already cleaned the bore with brake cleaner and lubed with Lucas CLP.
Strip what little finish it has and refinish with a dark stain ?, give me ideas please.
Then a few coats of Formsby Tung oil, Follow with a coat of T/C Bore Butter.

Overall: I am very well pleased. Very well done for a $500 factory rifle.
Of course the proof will be how it shoots.

Will start off with .490 RB
.020 Stripped Ticking lubed with Mink oil.
60gr. 777FFF and 777FF

Range Report to follow next week  ;)

26735022799_16c3a6eee7_b.jpg
 
"Barrel to forearm fit is a bit off, with barrel fitting snug on the left side."

Rout out that spot that is impinging on the barrel before re-finishing the wood. It has the remote possibility of throwing your accuracy off.
 
patocazador said:
"Barrel to forearm fit is a bit off, with barrel fitting snug on the left side."

Rout out that spot that is impinging on the barrel before re-finishing the wood. It has the remote possibility of throwing your accuracy off.
Might not be able to, as it looks like the whole barrel is angled left.
 
About 10 years back my principal hunting pard got one in a kit like that. He called Lyman and was polite, and they said send it back.  Had a replacement in 3 days- a new world record for shipping to Alaska. It arrived so fast they couldn't have received his original yet.

Best news of all, the replacement stock is a trophy. Looks like English walnut.

I'd call them and see what happens. If my bud's experience shows anything, you'll be happy you did.
 
Well I just got a GPR - 54 percussion myself last week. I would say your assessment of the quality of the gun is about the same as mine. I am going to work on my stock next summer because the finish as stated is pitiful.
 
When I got my GPR the stock was as described. I took all the metal off of it and used 600 grit wetdry sandpaper lubricated with boiled linseed oil. I sanded the stock lightly and allowed the sanding dust to mix with the BLO, which filled the grain nicely, and smoothed the stock considerably. I then installed the metal parts back on the stock and made a slurry out of sanding dust from a mahogany dowel mixed with BLO. I then hand rubbed the slurry into the small gaps between the metal and wood, and let it cure for a few days. After that, I applied 10 coats coats of hand rubbed BLO. The stock looks fabulous now and feels great. 

Matt
 
I called Lyman today, the tech was not in.
The CS gal told me to sand inside the barrel channel and around the tang for a better fit.
I asked if this would void the warranty and she no.
So I will attack it tomorrow.
 
Called Lyman again and they sent me an RA to send it back.
Not happy with the wood to metal fit.
all wood is very proud of the metal.
They said they would either fix it or replace the rifle, we shall see.
 
Hylander, from the picture your rifle looks good.  The lighter shade on the forend vs the darker butt stock give it a lot of character.  You have lots of options on finishing.  The ram rod can easily be replaced.  Check out Track of the Wolf for example.  

Good luck with her and be sure to let us know how she shoots.
 
Hylander said:
Well I got it back.
Lyman did Nothing
I never had a Lyman gun but their customer service for other products was awful. I'm not surprised that you're not pleased.
 
this is the reality about this gun. it is a really good gun but not finished when you get it even it if is supposed to be. wedges are too short. i put a couple layers of paper under the breech so their is a little tension on the new longer wedges. the rear sight has to be replaced. i put a skinner ghost ring on it. some of the wood screws have to be replaced. i dont use tapered wood screws. i use sheet metal slotted head screws. this isnt necessary but i put a magspark 209 shot gun primer nipple on it. i also put a curved spacer in the shoulder killer too curved butt plate and then put a high end lace up leather slip on leather cover over it. no more pain when the gun goes off. i even went one step more, i cryo treated the barrel. im fussy so i recrowned the muzzle to a perfect one. it shoot holes in hole with a mmp sabot and a 250 grin .451 or .452 45 cal pistol bullet. also other over the counter bullets. also 535 grain paper patched bullets. its a shooter now and solid and reliable but not out of the box.would i buy one again, yes, but i have the know how to tweek it, some dont or dont want to. they have to be worked on if your fussy at all. im fussy. i gave this gun to my son who lives in denver. before i gave it to him i did several shots at 180 yards and it kept a one inch group from a rest. it is not expensive and can be made into a really good gun if you dont mind going over it your self.
 
You do know that the gun has two different length wedges? Put them in the wrong slot and they'll seem too short. It also shows you in the manual how to adjust the tension on the wedges. It's very simple and takes me 30sec. One smack with a hammer and it's done.

The curved butt plate is actually pretty comfortable, but it takes a different method of shouldering the gun. More across your chest and not straight into the shoulder like a modern gun. It should mount between the deltoid and bicep. Not into just the deltoid. The bottom curve of the butt plate helps hold up the barrel by hooking under the deltoid.

209 primers? Sabots? Good grief you should have bought an inline.
 
180 yds

if that gun shot one inch groups at 180 yds with open sights you've got a world beater as far as a shooter said:
this is the reality about this gun. it is a really good gun but not finished when you get it even it if is supposed to be. wedges are too short. i put a couple layers of paper under the breech so their is a little tension on the new longer wedges. the rear sight has to be replaced. i put a skinner ghost ring on it. some of the wood screws have to be replaced. i dont use tapered wood screws. i use sheet metal slotted head screws. this isnt necessary but i put a magspark 209 shot gun primer nipple on it. i also put a curved spacer in the shoulder killer too curved butt plate and then put a high end lace up leather slip on leather cover over it. no more pain when the gun goes off. i even went one step more, i cryo treated the barrel. im fussy so i recrowned the muzzle to a perfect one. it shoot holes in hole with a mmp sabot and a 250 grin .451 or .452 45 cal pistol bullet. also other over the counter bullets. also 535 grain paper patched bullets. its a shooter now and solid and reliable but not out of the box.would i buy one again, yes, but i have the know how to tweek it, some dont or dont want to. they have to be worked on if your fussy at all. im fussy. i gave this gun to my son who lives in denver. before i gave it to him i did several shots at 180 yards and it kept a one inch group from a rest. it is not expensive and can be made into a really good gun if you dont mind going over it your self.
 
So I talked to Lyman CS today.
Was told they sent it back with a new stock  :roll:
I informed them they sent it back untouched.
They then asked for pictures, to which I email them immediately.
Then got a call a couple hours later saying they would send another RA to return the gun again.
I asked if they could just send me a new stock and I wold install it myself to save time for me and shipping for them. I was told it was not an easy job, but I assured them I have done this before.
They agreed to send me a new stock  :D
They asked flint or Percussion, I told them Percussion. hope I get the right one  :face:
I think they just got mixed up with my gun and thought it was taken care but no one actually took care of it. Everyone makes mistakes and if I get a new stock that is good I will be happy.
Also they said no need to return the old stock.
 
mine was a fast twist, thats why the sabots and bullets in the sabots. when your shooting 100 grains of real black behind a 250 grain bullet in a sabot the butt plate hurts. my wedges were the same length. as to bending the pieces so the wedges are tighter. that not how to solve the problem of a gun barrel that just sits in the channel. on these types of guns you want the barrel to rise up just a little in the front of the forestock. when you put slight pressure on the front of the barrel to put it into the barrel channel the wedges will stay in place. you sound like you got issues with fast twist barrel on side locks. i will never ever shoot a round ball in a 50 cal 1/32 twist barrel. oh the horror of a cast bullet, or sabot and bullet or paper patched bullet. i dont ride a horse or mule to town, i have electric heat,  sounds like a dyed in the wool traditional thing to me. i can set up most guns to shoot way beyond the accuracy that it was ment to, again, what is your issues?
 
strong eagle said:
mine was a fast twist, thats why the sabots and bullets in the sabots. when your shooting 100 grains of real black behind a 250 grain bullet in a sabot the butt plate hurts. my wedges were the same length. as to bending the pieces so the wedges are tighter. that not how to solve the problem of a gun barrel that just sits in the channel. on these types of guns you want the barrel to rise up just a little in the front of the forestock. when you put slight pressure on the front of the barrel to put it into the barrel channel the wedges will stay in place. you sound like you got issues with fast twist barrel on side locks. i will never ever shoot a round ball in a 50 cal 1/32 twist barrel. oh the horror of a cast bullet, or sabot and bullet or paper patched bullet. i dont ride a horse or mule to town, i have electric heat,  sounds like a dyed in the wool traditional thing to me. i can set up most guns to shoot way beyond the accuracy that it was ment to, again, what is your issues?
You should have said you had a GPH. This is a GPR thread. How do we know what you're talking about?
I don't agree with shimming the barrel to stand off the stock and squeezing it to install the wedges. That puts a strain on the wood and can crack it in time. I've seen that happen to a friends GPR setup that way.

 Do I have issues with modernizing a sidelock? Yes, I do. Shoot an inline and I can carry it further by saying to use it in rifle season too, but that pisses everybody off except the true traditional muzzleloaders. 

btw A 100gr of BP with a 250gr bullet in a 9lb gun is not a hard kicker.
 
Bear Claw said:
strong eagle said:
mine was a fast twist, thats why the sabots and bullets in the sabots. when your shooting 100 grains of real black behind a 250 grain bullet in a sabot the butt plate hurts. my wedges were the same length. as to bending the pieces so the wedges are tighter. that not how to solve the problem of a gun barrel that just sits in the channel. on these types of guns you want the barrel to rise up just a little in the front of the forestock. when you put slight pressure on the front of the barrel to put it into the barrel channel the wedges will stay in place. you sound like you got issues with fast twist barrel on side locks. i will never ever shoot a round ball in a 50 cal 1/32 twist barrel. oh the horror of a cast bullet, or sabot and bullet or paper patched bullet. i dont ride a horse or mule to town, i have electric heat,  sounds like a dyed in the wool traditional thing to me. i can set up most guns to shoot way beyond the accuracy that it was ment to, again, what is your issues?
You should have said you had a GPH. This is a GPR thread. How do we know what you're talking about?
I don't agree with shimming the barrel to stand off the stock and squeezing it to install the wedges. That puts a strain on the wood and can crack it in time. I've seen that happen to a friends GPR setup that way.

 Do I have issues with modernizing a sidelock? Yes, I do. Shoot an inline and I can carry it further by saying to use it in rifle season too, but that pisses everybody off except the true traditional muzzleloaders. 

btw A 100gr of BP with a 250gr bullet in a 9lb gun is not a hard kicker.
As one who was shooting traditional muzzleloaders a decade or more before there was such a thing as a special season, I can assure you that you don't piss me off.
 
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