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I see some are discussing how to treat their muzzle loaders to insure ignition in wet weather. This is a great topic! I personal live in Northern Wisconsin. Our muzzle loader season consists of snow storms, freezing cold temperatures, even rain or sleet sometimes. So knowing how to prepare your rifle for the elements is critical.
My methods are my methods. I am not insinuating they are the best or only methods. They are simply my methods. I would love to hear yours. When you do/if you do, be sure to state whether its a inline or traditional rifle style. Also in traditional is it a flintlock or percussion. Thanks.
INLINE
Before I load the rifle I swab the bore with isopropyl alcohol. I then run two dry patches after the alcohol. This removes any oils, grit, grime, etc. Then I push a clean dry patch to the bottom of the bore and pop a #11 or 209 primer. I pull that patch and must see a burn mark on it, or I will not load. When I see the burn mark, I load. Then before I head out into the elements, I cut the finger off a latex glove (doctors offices are full of them if you have an empty pocket). Stretch that finger over the muzzle. Then a small rubber band. You're now dry on that end. If it is an open breech inline, like a Knight LK, T/C Black Diamond XR, stretch a piece of plastic wrap over the open breech after you cap the rifle. You are now set for the weather.
TRADITIONAL PERCUSSION
As with the inline, I swab with alcohol, dry patch and again I must see a burn mark from the cap ignition. This tells me that the fire channel is clear. After loading, a latex glove finger and rubber band over the muzzle. For the cap I use one small piece of plastic wrap over the cap. You can shoot right over that. Then I have the valve stem cover off a car time (plastic ... garages are full of free ones). Open the hammer and lay that stem cover over the cap and plastic wrap. I even went as far as to put a piece of fishing line I threaded through the cap and tied off to the trigger guard. When you're ready to shoot, cock the rifle. With your finger flip the stem cover off. And BANG! you are ready to shoot.
TRADITIONAL RIFLE FLINTLOCK
The same goes for the flintlock except I don't pop caps of course to check that the vent liner is clean. This is done with a pick. I use an old guitar string and push that through the vent liner to make sure the path is open. I then load the flintlock. Again the latex finger and rubber band over the muzzle end. When I load the rifle I put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent liner. When the powder and ball is in it, slowly drag that vent liner out. This pulls powder right up to the back side of the vent liner.
For the lock in cold wet weather I used to go to extremes. But now simply use a cow knee to cover the lock when I am out in the elements. Also in wet weather, every 30 to 45 minutes I change the powder in the pan. Be sure to bring dry patches and when you change, wipe that pan out good before putting in new 3f or 4f pan powder. Again cover the lock ASAP. I use an old chunk of torn plastic tarp to cover the lock and trigger area. Using this method I have harvested deer in snow storms and the gun never failed to fire.
The important part is prepare the rifle properly before you load it. You want no oil or moisture in that bore before you load that rifle. Dry and clean, always keep it dry and lean. Also if your powder and caps are old ... are you ready for new? Range time will tell you this.
Good luck this hunting season. As they say, keep your powder dry. I would love to hear your methods..
My methods are my methods. I am not insinuating they are the best or only methods. They are simply my methods. I would love to hear yours. When you do/if you do, be sure to state whether its a inline or traditional rifle style. Also in traditional is it a flintlock or percussion. Thanks.
INLINE
Before I load the rifle I swab the bore with isopropyl alcohol. I then run two dry patches after the alcohol. This removes any oils, grit, grime, etc. Then I push a clean dry patch to the bottom of the bore and pop a #11 or 209 primer. I pull that patch and must see a burn mark on it, or I will not load. When I see the burn mark, I load. Then before I head out into the elements, I cut the finger off a latex glove (doctors offices are full of them if you have an empty pocket). Stretch that finger over the muzzle. Then a small rubber band. You're now dry on that end. If it is an open breech inline, like a Knight LK, T/C Black Diamond XR, stretch a piece of plastic wrap over the open breech after you cap the rifle. You are now set for the weather.
TRADITIONAL PERCUSSION
As with the inline, I swab with alcohol, dry patch and again I must see a burn mark from the cap ignition. This tells me that the fire channel is clear. After loading, a latex glove finger and rubber band over the muzzle. For the cap I use one small piece of plastic wrap over the cap. You can shoot right over that. Then I have the valve stem cover off a car time (plastic ... garages are full of free ones). Open the hammer and lay that stem cover over the cap and plastic wrap. I even went as far as to put a piece of fishing line I threaded through the cap and tied off to the trigger guard. When you're ready to shoot, cock the rifle. With your finger flip the stem cover off. And BANG! you are ready to shoot.
TRADITIONAL RIFLE FLINTLOCK
The same goes for the flintlock except I don't pop caps of course to check that the vent liner is clean. This is done with a pick. I use an old guitar string and push that through the vent liner to make sure the path is open. I then load the flintlock. Again the latex finger and rubber band over the muzzle end. When I load the rifle I put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the vent liner. When the powder and ball is in it, slowly drag that vent liner out. This pulls powder right up to the back side of the vent liner.
For the lock in cold wet weather I used to go to extremes. But now simply use a cow knee to cover the lock when I am out in the elements. Also in wet weather, every 30 to 45 minutes I change the powder in the pan. Be sure to bring dry patches and when you change, wipe that pan out good before putting in new 3f or 4f pan powder. Again cover the lock ASAP. I use an old chunk of torn plastic tarp to cover the lock and trigger area. Using this method I have harvested deer in snow storms and the gun never failed to fire.
The important part is prepare the rifle properly before you load it. You want no oil or moisture in that bore before you load that rifle. Dry and clean, always keep it dry and lean. Also if your powder and caps are old ... are you ready for new? Range time will tell you this.
Good luck this hunting season. As they say, keep your powder dry. I would love to hear your methods..