Accurate Molds #46-380M

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Idaholewis

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I know this is in another thread but it is buried so i figured I'd start a new thread on this mold. I just got it this morning, i steam cleaned it really good, had my lead pot ready to go, i was making good bullets in short order! This bullet looks really good and measures out exactly like i wanted it made (this bullet should fit good n tight all the way down) The bullet weight with pure lead is between 388-389 Grains


The mold, awesome craftsmanship as always from Accurate molds


The bullets, this is before i weighed and sorted


And the weight
 
They look FANTASTIC!! :yeah: I love the wide metaplate. They should be quite accurate and hit like the "Hammer of Thor". Can't wait to see your range report.
 
edmehlig said:
They look FANTASTIC!! :yeah: I love the wide metaplate. They should be quite accurate and hit like the "Hammer of Thor". Can't wait to see your range report.

Tomorrow morning at daylight, i will try them at 50-60 yards for this first test. I have 2 different over powder wads to test and see if i can tell any difference in accuracy between them? I will be using an oversized .50 Cal Oxyoke Wool, and .060 Vegetable fibre over powder wad, My powder charge will likely be 70 Grains of Swiss 3F, this rifle has shot everything i have tried in it with that powder/charge combo
 
My homemade .458 Cookie cutter worked like a charm on these critters! (actually its a 300 Magnum case blown out to .458)


Ready for a range session
 
I tested this bullet this morning at 50 yards, my load was 70 Grains of Swiss 3F powder, and i tried the .50 Cal oversized Wool over powder wads first, i chose to put my cold clean bore shot on an old target, then shoot my group on a fresh clean target, the cold bore was dead on! I then hung my fresh clean target and started my group, she shot REALLY REALLY good! I swapped targets and started my group using the same 70 Grains of Swiss 3F, except i swithched to the .060 Vege fibre over powder wads, that group was horrible??

My theory, I believe the Vegetable fibre over powder wads are sticking to the base of these Greased bullets from the melting lube? I have not been able to recover a Vege fibre over powder wad with these Greased bullets? I think they are staying glued to the base? (I could find them no problem with my paper patched bullets, which makes sense, the paper jacket shucks away at the muzzle and so would the Vege fibre wad, and accuracy was always good with my PP bullets) The big oversized .50 Cal wool over powder wads were no problem to find, but they were making it farther than i would have thought, about 25-30 yards from the barrel, accuracy with the .50 Cal wool wads was EXCEPTIONAL!


3 shot group with Wool over powder wads, how i am getting my numbers are as is, outside edge to outside edge is .780, this bullet measures .458 at the top band, if you subtract .458 from .780 you get a group size of .322


Group measured with calipers


3 shot group with .060 Vege Fibre over powder wads, NOT good! Again I believe the wad is sticking to the base of the bullet from the melting lube, if i am right that would cause the bullet to steer wrong
 
The way i had this mold cut is definitely not for everyone! They start out TIGHT as i expected them to, i am able to start them with my thumb, buts its a HARD PUSH. The odd part is they stil get loose about half way down the barrel? Not horribly loose, but they definitely loosen up, i am thinking about trying to Knurl them between to mill files and see if i can get them any tighter all the way down? My Stainless .50 and the bullshop bullet stayed tight from start to finish, so i had this mold cut to the same type of dimensions as the Bullshop .50, except .45 obviously. The bottom 2 bands are .454, the 3rd and 4th bands are .456, and the top band is .458

Here are the Wool over powder wads I recovered, No Vege fibre wads were found?
 
Very impressive group with the wool wads. Also very surprised how groups opened up with the vegetable wads. Just goes to show you that nothing can be taken for granted.
 
I know you cut your own vegetable wads do you cut the wool also ? Have you tried any shots without using any wads ?
 
Saxtonyoung said:
I know you cut your own vegetable wads do you cut the wool also ? Have you tried any shots without using any wads ?


Saxton, I am not sure if my press mounted punches would cut wool? I do have a nice set of hole punches that I specifically bought for cutting out wool wads, i just haven't bought the material and done it, Durofelt online is the place to buy the stuff! They even list the harder 1/8" felt as great/popular for Wad making, The wool wads i have been using are store bought RMC Oxyoke Originals called wonder wads 1000 plus. And i have always went up a size, example being for my 45 i use a 50 Wool wad, for 50 i use a 54 wad, and for 54 i use a 58 Wad, I have tried them 45 for 45, 50 for 50, and 54 for 54, i feel like the edge goes to the oversized wad, just makes sense that it would create a better gas seal behind the bullet.

I really believe this bullet would shoot very well without a wad, but i feel the felt wad is important, not only does it seal gasses behind the bullet, they also protect the powder from a lubed bullet, this wouldn't be an issue in cold weather, but if it were to get hot by chance and the lube started to run the Wool wad would catch it before it contaminated the powder. I will continue to use the Wool felt wads with my Grease bullets, but i will likely order bulk and start making my own, as much as i shoot it would be well worth it to do!

The Vege Fibre wads are ABSOLUTELY awesome with paper patched bullets, i have had stellar results using them in all of Paper Patch guns, for paper patched bullets i prefer the Vege wads over wool. A Paper Patched Bullet ABSOLUTELY NEEDS a good solid gas seal behind it!!! I have shot a few groups just like the best one above with my Paper Patched bullets and Vege Fibre wads
 
I've shot a lot of lubed bullets without any wad but never experienced an issue with the lube contaminating the powder but I must say they were not loaded for an extended period of time. They were either used for target practice or hunting when the weather was cool or even cold.

Are the wads you are referring to have lube and if so is there no issue of contamination there ?

When you do start making your wads will you be lubricating them and with what ?

Although I have been happy with the results without wads I would like to do a side by side comparison to see if I'm missing out.
 
Saxtonyoung said:
I've shot a lot of lubed bullets without any wad but never experienced an issue with the lube contaminating the powder but I must say they were not loaded for an extended period of time. They were either used for target practice or hunting when the weather was cool or even cold.

Are the wads you are referring to have lube and if so is there no issue of contamination there ?

When you do start making your wads will you be lubricating them and with what ?

Although I have been happy with the results without wads I would like to do a side by side comparison to see if I'm missing out.


Saxton, The wool wads i am currently using are supposedly lubed? But i can Squeeze them hard between my fingers and i cant see any signs of grease/oil? So i feel they are 100% safe against the powder. I should have stated, i am going off of my personal thoughts/feelings on the Wad protecting the powder, i have no proof that lube gets in the powder? But it seems plausible to me that it possibly could so why chance it? It is EXTREMELY unlikely that it ever would in Hunting season around these parts, It is usually freezing in October here, and in November when i really get serious about deer hunting i can almost guarantee that it will be cold, ive seen it get down around 0 here In November, so definitely no worries of lube getting runny and possibly contaminating the powder if it is freezing cold out. I think the importance of the OP Wad is far more so in sealing gasses behind the bullet than protecting the powder, But here again i have ZERO proof of there being anything to this with these large tight fitting Greased bullets, Maybe they don't need an over powder wad? I have yet to test this with the Greased bullets, it would be interesting to run Chronograph numbers on identical weight bullets with an over powder wad, and without a wad to see if there is any difference to speak of? My Chronograph has a high, low, standard deviation, extreme spread, and average velocity so it would show up. I know there are a lot of guy's that don't use an op wad with lubed Maxi's, Lyman Plains, etc. i started using them the very first time i ever shot a Muzzleloader, to me they make sense. My thinking is There must be a reason that all of the big competition shooters use them? Most of them guys use Vege fibre, or LDPE (Poly) Wads, and in .060 Thou thickness.

I have had experience with Gas sealing/not sealing behind a Paper Patched bullet and i feel it is EXTREMELY important to use a good over powder wad with PP Bullets, for 1 my PP bullets, and most are undersized by 6-8 thousands, in other words without a paper jacket on my bullets i could literally drop a bullet down the barrel and it would free fall to the powder, I was shooting this same 45 LRH back in late winter, starting of spring, i was shooting BACO .444-400 Bullets (the same bullets i have shot out to 500 yards) I was on my last shot of an AWESOME group (one of my best to date at 100 yards with open sights) Something went bad wrong? The gun went off, but sounded really odd? The rifle barely bumped me, it wasn't a kick like all the other shots? To this day i can only speculate what happened? The BACO bullets are a cupped base swaged bullet, not poured, they have a REALLY sharp burr around the base that i had not payed enough attention to, i was wrapping them with 2 wraps of 9# onion skin paper and sending them through a .448-.449 sizing die to 'iron' the paper out, the morning i was gonna shoot i was packing my stuff up to head out when I noticed a paper at the bullet base was cut? I unwrapped that bullet to see what had happened? That sharp burr edge on the base of the bullet from the swaging process had sliced through the onion skin paper like a knife! I checked the other bullets and sure enough i found a few more that were cut, i ran down to my loading press and redid the ones i could see that were damaged (I should have taken the time and stripped all of the papers and deburred the base of every one of them bullets, and then re wrapped them, but i didnt)

I was using .060 Vegetable fibre over powder wads this day, Here is the only logical thing i can think of that happened on that last shot, after dumping my pre weighed charges in i was starting the over powder wads just slightly, and then pushing the PP bullets in on top of the wads and pushing both of them together to the powder charge, I believe that last bullet had a cut paper at the base that i had missed, or it was at least weakened from that sharp edge on the bullet base? When i pushed the bullet down on top of the already started Vege fibre wad it felt normal (the Vege fibre wads have noticeable resistance all the way down) I believe Somewhere on the way down the barrel that Bullet pushed through the paper jacket, But I didn't feel anything different due to the resistance of the Vege fibre wad, I capped the rifle, settled in and took the shot, it sounded odd? It didn't kick me, it was more of a slight bump against my shoulder? I seen the puff of smoke after the shot and that was it? I don't think that bullet even made it to the target? If it did, it went perfectly straight through the center of the group, but I doubt that happened by the sound, and no recoil. Even tho i had an over powder wad behind the bullet, i am confident that i had lost the paper jacket somewhere down the barrel? So that left a .444 naked bullet in a .450 something bore, When i shot, gasses were able to escape around the Over powder wad due to the naked undersize bullet ahead of it, and gasses obviously would have made it around the undersize bullet as well. That is the only thing that makes any sense of that odd last shot that morning?

With my paper patch bullets i have tested to see if there are differences in accuracy between wool, Vege fibre, and Poly wads, I can't tell any difference in accuracy? I have loads logged down for each wad that have worked very for me. I personally like the way the Vege fibre and LDPE poly wads load, especially in my .45 But after today with Grease Groove bullets they are out of the question in this Rifle, and probably all of my rifles when i shoot Greased bullets, Paper Patched bullets are a completely different deal
 
Target i was shooting that day at 100 yards, there should have been 7 shots here, but I don't believe the last shot even made it to the target? If it did, it had to of gone straight through the center of the group, again I don't think that happened?


Here is what was happening to my paper from the sharp base of the BACO .444-400 Bullets, i should have taken the time to deburr them, but I didn't. And I believe on that last reload the Bullet pushed through the paper jacket somewhere down the barrel and i did not feel, or notice it, since i was pushing the bullet down on top of a tight fitting wad like pictured below, that resistance was all i felt


Here is an LDPE Poly Wad in my .45 LRH, you can really see here just how well they seal the bore. Important? With paper patched bullets I ABSOLUTELY swear so! The big tight fitting Grease groove bullets? Maybe not?
 
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