Advice for First Muzzleloader

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Rathmatik

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Dec 14, 2022
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Hello,

I am looking into getting my first muzzleloader to hunt later this month for whitetail in Missouri. I've been reloading for years, so much of the concepts are familiar. I'm currently looking at getting the CVA Accura MR-X Cerakote Sniper Grey/Nitride Muzzleloader that they have at Scheels. I'm a big fan of Bergara, so I figured this would be a solid choice with it having a Bergara barrel.

I was looking at the Triple Seven 50/50 pellets to go along with Hornady SST .50 Sabot bullets. One question I have, would the Federal 209MZ Muzzleloader primers work for this? That's the only primers they had in stock at Scheels.

Thanks in advance!
 
Quick question, how do you plan to swab the MRX barrel using Triple7 and a ramrod that is held together with a bungee cord? The MRX/LRX were made to shoot Blackhorn209 which does not require swabbing between shots. The included ramrod is for loading ONLY. Your option is to carry another rod with you since the MRX has no place to carry the rod.

You can buy a Optima V2 for over $100 less that will do virtually anything the MRX can do and its better suited to powders like Triple7 since it has a typical ramrod. MidwayUSA has the Optima V2 LR also in nitride/Cerakote for about $390. Save some cash and invest in better mounting hardware. The rail that comes with the MRX is like 1 step above cast pot metal.

All CVA MLs are produced at the Bergara plant. That Bergara stamp on the barrel isnt worth the additional $$$$s from what ive seen.

Heckuva lot better value.
https://muzzle-loaders.com/collecti...ers/products/cvatm-optima-v2-nitride-pr2023nmhttps://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019958468?pid=794279https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1023221419?pid=655353
 
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Thanks for the tips! I was planning on getting another ramrod, but more for cleaning. Sorry, new to this, but why does Triple7 require swabbing between shots vs. BH 209? Those seem like some good options too and good to know where they're made.
 
Welcome from Oklahoma.
Triple 7 develops what's called a crud ring. Which is a ring of burnt powder residue at about the point where the bullet sits in the barrel above the powder charge.
After firing your first shot, loading a second or third shot may be very difficult to do without swabbing the barrel.
Blackhorn 209 is a much cleaner burning powder. You could load shot after shot without the need to clean the barrel. But, it's way more expensive, almost not worth it, imo.
 
That makes sense now, thank you both for clarifying! I guess I can figure that part out until I manage to get/find BH 209. Hopefully when hunting I won't need a second shot anyhow haha.

Another thing I'll add as to why I like the Accura MR-X, is the fact that it has a threaded barrel. I like the option to throw on a brake in the future.
 
Unless you plan on a steady diet of magnum loads and really big bullets you wont get much out of a brake. Its not like a Paramount Pro that handles huge loads. Launching 300gr+ bullets at over 2200fps. Plus you better make sure the brake functions ok with sabots or you are stuck using ELR Powerbelts at $2 a pop.

I like the concept but it was poorly applied. CVA got it right with the previous MR and PR versions. All they needed to do was add a good threaded 45 barrel as an option. The 45cal MRX/LRX versions were a total disaster. Makes me wonder how bad the new tooling is on the other new models.
 
Sounds good. I'll double-check on whether the brake I found (Anarchy Outdoors) is fine with sabots.

Back to the powder options, is there a pellet powder that does not typically leave a crud ring?
 
You can likely have a gunsmith thread any barrel for a brake down the road if you decide you want to do that.

No black powder or sub that I’m aware of that doesn’t leave lots of fouling/crud in the barrel (other than Blackhorn 209).
 
Sounds good. I'll double-check on whether the brake I found (Anarchy Outdoors) is fine with sabots.

Back to the powder options, is there a pellet powder that does not typically leave a crud ring?
You can probably use Pyrodex pellets. Not sure if they leave a crud ring. I'm not really experienced with pellets.
 
Pyrodex pellets leave quite a bit less of a crud ring but its far more corrosive and more fouling total. If you fire it, make sure you clean (really good) as soon as possible when you are done for the day.

I tried both Whitehots and T7 pellets. They both left a similar crud ring but the Whitehots had a little less fouling. They also make a little less fps. Never weighed them to compare but ive seen one thing reduce the crud ring......Use less of it. If the Whitehots weighed less that would explain what ive seen.

BTW all 3 make fairly close to the same fps. T7 pellets were made to mimic Pyro pellets with a cleaner powder. Loose Triple7 is a fair amount more powerful than Pyrodex. Its also one of the cheapest options you can get almost anywhere. You will still need to deal with some degree of a crud ring but with loose you can adjust the load down as needed far more easily................Less fuel burned.......Less crud ring.
 
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Hello,

I am looking into getting my first muzzleloader to hunt later this month for whitetail in Missouri. I've been reloading for years, so much of the concepts are familiar. I'm currently looking at getting the CVA Accura MR-X Cerakote Sniper Grey/Nitride Muzzleloader that they have at Scheels. I'm a big fan of Bergara, so I figured this would be a solid choice with it having a Bergara barrel.

I was looking at the Triple Seven 50/50 pellets to go along with Hornady SST .50 Sabot bullets. One question I have, would the Federal 209MZ Muzzleloader primers work for this? That's the only primers they had in stock at Scheels.

Thanks in advance!
Welcome to the Black Opium Den! We're all here to help you spend whatever funds/assets of any worth.
 
Regarding a muzzle break, in my 30+ years of muzzleloading I’ve never thought of using one. I do have one on another rifle, but it’s lighter in overall weight and a heavier caliber modern rifle. In my opinion, for what it’s worth, I don’t feel like a muzzle break is needed in a muzzleloader. The felt recoil is very manageable.
 
Regarding a muzzle break, in my 30+ years of muzzleloading I’ve never thought of using one. I do have one on another rifle, but it’s lighter in overall weight and a heavier caliber modern rifle. In my opinion, for what it’s worth, I don’t feel like a muzzle break is needed in a muzzleloader. The felt recoil is very manageable.
I agree. More trouble than they’re worth unless you are shooting really heavy bullets with big charges.
 
Good to know, I guess I can try both :) If it's more recoil than 30-06, I'll appreciate a brake, as I get tired of that recoil after 10 shots at the range.
 
Alot depends on the rifles/loads but a CF often has a quicker recoil velocity than a ML. So the kick does not feel quite the same.

My NULAs max load shoots a 275gr at 2400fps+ in a sub 8lb rifle. Its quite manageable without a brake while hunting. Not much fun for long range days though.
 
I actually hate a brake in places like a public range with the dividers. The shockwave it creates is super annoying. If you got land you can practice at you probably wont mind it nearly as much. I find the shockwave just as annoying as the additional recoil without it.

Outside of rifles like the RUML, custom builds and Paramount type loads i just dont think its much of a feature. I can always shoot another load for recreational days instead of the big boomers. I would rather upgrade the recoil pad and if i had to, get a padded shooting vest.
 

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