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Not trying to be confrontational here but allow me to just share a bit of knowledge. Idahoron is giving you decent tips on trying to stop grain boundry cracks in many species of wood but this is not a “ crack “ it is a glue-lam failure created by a glue line holiday or void between the thin laminars that make up the stock . Drilling and vertical doweling could very well create enough pressure on the joint to create further travel or separation especially if it’s starved or lacking sufficient glue wet out. This only applies if you you think idahoron was figuring a vertical dowel ?
Another option would be cutting a longitudinal groove to a depth of .250“ + - and across two or three laminates each side then make a wood spline to fit the groove and glue it in. This is an accepted way of repairing glue joint failures and since it’s not visible no matching is required. Cutting the groove would be easy enough on a mill not so easy by hand.
if I were you I’d take some feeler gauges and probe this seam and see if you can determine it’s depth. I’d say much more than .250” and it’s pretty serious considering there isn’t much more depth of the stock. if you find it’s something you want to patch then use nothing but epoxy resin. I would not use just any epoxy as many action/barrel bedding compounds have thickening agents and this will prevent deep penetration into the splits. Make sure both sides of the split are clean wood and don’t be afraid of removing some wood so you have enough clearance to drip glue in. You will need a light viscosity epoxy that will flow into the void. There will be air entrapment which will cause bubbles so let them come up and take a thin razor knife to pop them and keep adding epoxy until it fills and actually settles a bit high. let it cure then sand flush. Good luck
Rick
Another option would be cutting a longitudinal groove to a depth of .250“ + - and across two or three laminates each side then make a wood spline to fit the groove and glue it in. This is an accepted way of repairing glue joint failures and since it’s not visible no matching is required. Cutting the groove would be easy enough on a mill not so easy by hand.
if I were you I’d take some feeler gauges and probe this seam and see if you can determine it’s depth. I’d say much more than .250” and it’s pretty serious considering there isn’t much more depth of the stock. if you find it’s something you want to patch then use nothing but epoxy resin. I would not use just any epoxy as many action/barrel bedding compounds have thickening agents and this will prevent deep penetration into the splits. Make sure both sides of the split are clean wood and don’t be afraid of removing some wood so you have enough clearance to drip glue in. You will need a light viscosity epoxy that will flow into the void. There will be air entrapment which will cause bubbles so let them come up and take a thin razor knife to pop them and keep adding epoxy until it fills and actually settles a bit high. let it cure then sand flush. Good luck
Rick
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