Minies and other tough casts

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Biggest problem I've seen with propane burners is temp control. When I clean off pure lead and cast ingots I don't watch the temps that close. When I mix my tin and lead I tend to keep a constant temp just so my mix is always the same. When I cast I keep my temps as consistent as possible. Many people when they cast over flux. This can and does cause the removal of the tin. What most people see as dross is actually the tin coming to the top of the pot, which can be stirred back in. Just something I have learned from old guys that have good targets, medals and trophy's.
 
My Euroarms 1863 Remington has quite an appetite for big lead minies.
They are a pain to cast though. I opened the hole in the sprue plate to match the meplat of the bullet, as many sources suggest to do.
There was improvement, but still WAY too many culls.
The other day I noticed how small the hole is in my ball ladle and thought that can't be good. So I opened it to 5/16 and now I'm casting more and better minies. The molds are a Lyman 5752130S and an Ideal 575213.
The only thing is my Remington needs at least a .580 diameter. Even though undersized, both minies shoot well. Usually under 3 inches for 3 at 50 yards.
I'm turning this rifle into a hunter for hogs and bear. The fast 2nd shot possible with a proper minie could come in handy! I'll be using paper cartridges too.

First off, PURE lead only. Second, run your pot as hot as it will go. Preheat the mold with a propane torch. Have the mold slightly open and play the flame across it making sure to hit the core pin in the middle. You're only aiming to get the mold nearly up to temp before the first pour. Start pouring, leaving the bullet in the mold for a 10 count. Ditch the first 10 bullets. Start production.

I have the same mold and using the same procedure, my reject rate is under 5%. I also slightly tilt the mold so the pour hits the "slope" of the hole and "swirls" in.
 

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