I honestly dont know , some nothing . Linseed oil is really very shallow penetrateing . It was used by our military years ago. It doesnt wick well without intense heat . Wax is also surface treatment . Walnut or almond oil is good but is also expensive and a bit unstable ,( may get rancid) . Orange oil doesnt penetrate quite as good , also will darken or tint wood . Thats what i know .....
This is true . We eat off of those . Purely scientifically and cost effectively lemon oil IS best . Feeds the wood , stops warping and resulting cracks , prevents wood from getting weak(breakdown of cellulose fibers) and turning to dust !!! When its old enough and conditions are present to allow this . Dry rot really . Lemon oil done like ive shared goes to the CORE of the wood . It dont get no better !!! That is why museums use it to PRESERVE and PROTECT for posterity !!! Shouldnt we also ?? Use the Best we can have available ??
I live right on top of Greenfield Village and Henry Ford Museum . Believe me they got alot of it !!!!!
Oh yea , almost forgot , there is NO COLOR CHANGE WITH LEMON OIL
Ive used mineral oil on my Brittanys so burrs pull out easily . As long as the dog dont lick it (HA!!!) uninterupted bird hunting is done . Better out there than home !!!!The question was "what was used before lemon oil".....It was probably a mineral oil based product. The Germans have been using it since at least the late 1800s. Ballistol has been around since about 1905 for commercial use. Its main ingredient is medical grade light mineral oil. Its safe for all surfaces and harmless to humans. Only thing that would happen if you drank USP grade mineral oil is you would poop like a goose. Its a laxative
Best of all its super cheap and you can get it almost anywhere.
The question was "what was used before lemon oil".....It was probably a mineral oil based product. The Germans have been using it since at least the late 1800s. Ballistol has been around since about 1905 for commercial use. Its main ingredient is medical grade light mineral oil. Its safe for all surfaces and harmless to humans. Only thing that would happen if you drank USP grade mineral oil is you would poop like a goose. Its a laxative
Best of all its super cheap and you can get it almost anywhere.
Youre right by title . For storage , short and/or long term . I added the wood stuff . Only wanted to help folks . I started this thread and to me , the preservation of a wood stock fit here . I only offered the absolute best ive found out to use for that purpose . Everybody here decides what they will or will not do . Im good with that . This was an area i work in alot about woods . I mean no harm .
Im not a fan of the smell of anise so i use Montana Xtreme Bore Conditioner instead. I use SENT CLP also. Its a affordable milspec CLP without Teflon. I used to see it all the time by the gallon at gun shows for about $20-25/gallon. The MX stuff is also mineral oil based but it uses a different solvent than Ballistol.
For long term.. WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor is one of the best. Its been tested against some of the top products on the market and does very very well.
Ive used G96 for years on my bird guns . Love that stuff , especially on a semi auto . But on a deer hunting gun its scent isnt what you want at all . Check these oils for its odors for a big game gun !!! It is an excellant product though . Guys it looks like we got options !!! Thanks GM54--120 !!
Wow thats a good one !!!
