Rust in the bore.

[gregdaws]

My new to me renegade has some corrosion in the barrel. The corrosion doesn't look to be bad (surface) and I want to clean the rust out and see how it shoots. I've had the barrel in the vice using a bronze brush and Hoppe's as a solvent. I have an impressive amount of sludge that I have got out but can still see evidence of the rust. Any suggestions as to how I can better do this? Thanks.

 

[snapbang]

Im thinking the remaining "rust" you see is actually pitting. After you shoot it a few times any rust will be blown out the barrel.

I know several guys and have helped others in projects where the barrels are pitted to the extreme. The guns still shoot amazingly well for the amount of damage. Pitted so bad you cant see a shiny spot in the barrel.

Of course I dont recommend you misuse or neglect your gun but if you are starting out with a pitted barrel it can still be a great shooter.

Your going to have to do some shooting to see.

 

[Fyrstyk]

If there is indeed some pitting, I suggest using a bore mop with JB bore paste and scrub the bore several dozen times to smooth out any pitting that may be there. Be sure to clean the barrel again to get rid of the excess bore paste.

 

[billyboy*]

You may want to try Kroil & Brownells SS Bore Mop Strands.
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10705

 

[gregdaws]

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated

 

[HV-Muzzleloaders]

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated

The following DIY method on YouTube might help you.

How To Bore Lap a Muzzleloader - YouTube

 

[Idaholewis]

Follow this, even though this is for a New, or Leaded barrel, I do this exact procedure to a Bore with rust in it. The KEY is a TIGHT FIT, You want to see the Grooves imprinted in the Patch/0000 Steel Wool, not just the Rifling. And to do this you need a Good Quality Range Rod that you can get Good Leverage/Power with, The rod that is in your Gun is a JOKE here! Again, you need a Good Range type Rod, Then simply follow these Directions below. I ad Montana Extreme Bore Polish/Compound, which is the Equivalent of JB’s Bore Paste

”Lee Shaver Barrel Break in procedure”

Having used the jacketed bullet/clean-between-shot process in the past and
specifically Badger’s procedure when breaking-in one of my Browning BPCRs, I
was not looking forward to repeating the very lengthy process with my other
Browning’s. Fortunately Lee Shaver came to the rescue with his much simpler and
less time consuming process. With permission from Lee I’ve included the details
of his procedure. It’s from a larger article Lee published in the May 2013 edition
of The Single Shot Exchange Magazine.

Excerpt from “Breaking In a Barrel” by Lee Shaver:
Several years ago, I developed a process for breaking-in barrels for lead bullet use
that eliminated the afternoon of shooting and cleaning with jacketed bullet. It
began because I would occasionally have to get bad leading out of a barrel for a
customer, and when you charge what a gunsmith must charge to stay in business
you don’t want to spend an afternoon scrubbing the lead out of a customer’s gun.
And I’m sure the customer would rather not pay for said services.

What I learned was that when scrubbing lead out of a barrel, I could run a tight oily
patch through a few times and then take the patch off the jag. I would then unroll a
little 0000 steel wool and cut a piece the size of the patch. Place that over the
patch and then run it all through together. (The proper fit is when you have to
bump the rod a few times with the palm of your hand to get it started in the bore.)
When you shove that steel wool over a patch through the bore of a badly leaded
barrel, it may sound like paper tearing as the lead is ripped out of the barrel in a
pass or two. I can clean the lead out of the worst barrel in about ten or fifteen
minutes that way, and an average leaded barrel will be clean in a few strokes.

After using this technique for a while, I began to notice that the rifles that I was de-
leading that way seemed to lead less afterwards, which got me to thinking. We use
fine steel wool on the outside of old guns all the time to do some cleaning or spot
rust removal, and it does not damage the surface of the steel. It just scrubs it.
Which lead me to consider the fact that we are trying to break in a barrel by
smoothing the surface without cutting, and it seems to me that process would go
much quicker if we used something on the inside of the bore that was closer to the
hardness of the barrel instead of lead or copper. So I started trying the steel wool
and oiled patch technique on new barrels before shooting them. I use it about as
tight as I can get in the bore and wear out a steel wool pad or two in about 15
minutes, then I go and shoot the rifle.

How well does it work you might ask? On a few occasions, I have built a new rifle
and taken it to a match without ever having fired the rifle. All have performed
flawlessly in their first match and several times I won the match or set a record
with them. On one occasion, I set a new 300 yard range record with the first 13
shots out of a barrel. This method has become a service we offer to our customers
here in the shop and I have shared the technique many times with others.

So the next time you get ready to shoot that new rifle, just remember it is important
to break in a barrel properly, but if the operation you are doing to the barrel cuts –
it is not breaking it in. It may be making the barrel smoother, but to break the
barrel in you need to polish the bore by burnishing not cutting either by shooting it
or scrubbing it.
Lee Shaver

 

[gregdaws]

Okay, that seems like a pretty good idea. I just need to get a good quality range rod and I will be in business. Thanks idaho and everyone else for your input.

 

[Idaholewis]

Okay, that seems like a pretty good idea. I just need to get a good quality range rod and I will be in business. Thanks idaho and everyone else for your input.

Also, make sure and use a GOOD Jag, Like these Treso’s with a Steel threaded insert in them, I would AVOID a Solid Brass Jag that is machined of 1 Piece (Brass Studded) they are an accident waiting to happen, The threaded shaft can easily Break off, i’ve seen it. Then you have a TIGHT Fitting Patched/0000 Steel Wool Jag Stuck in your Barrel ☹

This is what i mean, the one on the Left is Brass Studded, I would AVOID This Type, they can and will Break off!! The Button Jag on the Right is a Treso, they use a Threaded Steel insert that will NOT Break off, They are EXTREMELY Durable, i have been using them from my Beginning in Muzzleloading, i have Yet to Break one, I am back n forth down my Bores on a Regular Basis with VERY TIGHT Patch Combos, Again, i have NEVER had a Failure with the Steel threaded Treso’s

I prefer these longer Treso Jags over the Short Button Jags, i have these in ALL Calibers. Mine have seen LOTS & LOTS of Use

This is what i advise
https://www.buffaloarms.com/50-caliber-cleaning-jag-10-32-tre1122506.htmlJags are made from brass with a steel threaded stud to prevent the breakage that can occur with brass studded jags.

 

[gregdaws]

Thank you so much. Thanks for taking the time to impart this knowledge. Perhaps one day I can return the favour.

 

[gregdaws]

Thanks Idaholewis. ML supplies are not always easy to find in Canada including a good range rod!! I've looked at making my own but I think I'm going to import from the USA (I'm in Ontario). I own several guns in .45, .50 & .54 calibres. Is there a rod that will cover all 3 calibres or do I need to get 3/8 & 7/16. I've only ever used the rod that comes with the gun (s) but can see the logic of a range rod especially for cleaning in the shop. I was looking at the Tresco 3/8 & 7/16 rods and jags at Buffalo arms. You are more knowledgeable than me, what would you choose?

 

[Idaholewis]

Thanks Idaholewis. ML supplies are not always easy to find in Canada including a good range rod!! I've looked at making my own but I think I'm going to import from the USA (I'm in Ontario). I own several guns in .45, .50 & .54 calibres. Is there a rod that will cover all 3 calibres or do I need to get 3/8 & 7/16. I've only ever used the rod that comes with the gun (s) but can see the logic of a range rod especially for cleaning in the shop. I was looking at the Tresco 3/8 & 7/16 rods and jags at Buffalo arms. You are more knowledgeable than me, what would you choose?

You want a 3/8” Rod, that will cover all 3 Calibers you mention The 5/16” are for Small Bores such as .32 & .36 Cals

Here is a Range Rod that i can Vouch for, I have owned 2 of these Smooth Fiberglass Treso’s (I gave 1 to my Dad) I have used these things REALLY HARD, and have been doing so from my Beginning in Muzzleloading, They are Solid, RIGID Fiberglass, They say Flexible, And yes you can flex them a tiny bit, but they are VERY Rigid, unlike Delrin that you can Bend in a Circle. I have yet to Damage one of these, They are TOUGH! They come Long (48” inches) Since this is a Range Rod i wanted to Leave some Length so i could get a GOOD Hold on it, I cut mine to 36” inches, my Longest Barrels are 32” inches. These Rods also come with a Brass sliding Bore Guide If I remember correctly?

At 13.99, These are a Bargain
https://www.buffaloarms.com/treso-3-8-diameter-flexible-f-tre1191610.html
Just make sure you keep your Jags & Ramrod to match thread, & Diameter. These Rods are available in both 10-32 (Typically Muzzleloaders) & 8-32 (Typically Centerfires) The same goes for the Jags, you can get them in Both Thread Pitches, along with Different Diameters.

in short, Make sure and Get a 3/8” inch Rod with 10-32 Thread Pitch, and get your Jags 3/8” inch with 10-32 Thread Pitch, This way the Jag fits flush to the Rod, With no lip to Catch/Hangup.

After Cutting my Treso Fiberglass Rod down to 36” inches, i picked up a little Rubber tip at my local Hardware and Epoxied it on the Cut end

 

[HC]

7/16 = .4375

 

[Idaholewis]

7/16 = .4375

Good Catch HC! I meant 5/16

 

[Idaholewis]

Another REALLY Good Range Rod is a Solid Brass one. I have 2 of these, 3/8” and 5/16” I really like these for Patched Roundball, i can send a Tight Patch/Ball combo down the Bore with EASE using these, Due to their weight these are the most powerful Range Rods i own, These are AWESOME

https://www.octobercountry.com/bench-ramrod-with-wood-handle-3-8-diameter-36-long/

 

[gregdaws]

So, I placed my order with Buffalo arms. The 3/8 Treso ram rod, .45,.50 & .54 Jags, bullet pullers and patch worm came to about $50 which was great. Right now I have a collection of Jags that are bent and broken so all new is going to be a treat. Shipping with FEDEX hurt a bit as that was another $50 but now I am sorted. Thanks again for your help
.

 

[user 23626]

Thanx for the OC address Ron. I just ordered a brass rangerod. I' going to ask if they would offer it sans the handle like the one I already own. Shortened to be a reg bbl rod as I don't mind the weight in the field and like it's dependability....Trader

 

[Idaholewis]

Thanx for the OC address Ron. I just ordered a brass rangerod. I' going to ask if they would offer it sans the handle like the one I already own. Shortened to be a reg bbl rod as I don't mind the weight in the field and like it's dependability....Trader

I’m Lewis

 

[user 23626]

I’m Lewis

UH OH! Sorry Lewis, my bad....Trader

 

[Idaholewis]

UH OH! Sorry Lewis, my bad....Trader

All good my friend! I made it someone confusing several years ago when i chose “Idaho“ in front of my Name, That has been Ron’s Handle for MANY YEARS on these Forums. There are actually a Few more “Idaho’s“ scattered out across the Forums other than Ron and myself. Glad to see you hear Mossie