1/8" wool felt powder wads for .50 cal............

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I have read on here about using 1/8" wool felt powder wads between the powder and Maxi Balls that I shoot out of my .50 New Englander. Additional research shows a substantial increase in 100 yard accuracy. My accuracy is pretty darn good but an increase in accuracy is always welcome. So my questions are is, are those to be used dry or lubricated. Also, where to purchase them?

Thank you in advance.
 
I have read on here about using 1/8" wool felt powder wads between the powder and Maxi Balls that I shoot out of my .50 New Englander. Additional research shows a substantial increase in 100 yard accuracy. My accuracy is pretty darn good but an increase in accuracy is always welcome. So my questions are is, are those to be used dry or lubricated. Also, where to purchase them?

Thank you in advance.
You can get either dry or lubes felt wads ( Walters Wonder Wads ). Try out some hard veggie wads with those maxi's. When I do shoot cast lead conicals ( its not often ) in a sidelock or inline, especially with T7 powder, I prefer the veggie wads over the felt wads. I use the felt wads with jacketed bullets. But thats what works for me, its not the " right way " or the only way. Try both & see how you & your gun like them.
 
You can also get a cheap punch from Harbor Freight or Amazon (I got one for $8 delivered) and punch your own using DuraFelt or similar. If you try felt from a local fabric store, remember real wool only no synthetics.

As to lubed (and with what) vs. dry, well, time to experiment... but that is half the fun
 
You can also get a cheap punch from Harbor Freight or Amazon (I got one for $8 delivered) and punch your own using DuraFelt or similar. If you try felt from a local fabric store, remember real wool only no synthetics.

As to lubed (and with what) vs. dry, well, time to experiment... but that is half the fun
The punch is a good idea. I got one in .40
 
Lots of places to get them. Like RMC OxYoke, DeerCreek, TracksofTheWolf, Cabelas, probably amazon too. I like a lubed wad instead of a dry wad. Also lots of guys use over sized wads… a .54 wad in a .50 cal barrel for even better sealing.
I use the oversized wads and prefer unlubed wads with lube only on the bullet. Really though, whatever you find works for you…
 
You can get either dry or lubes felt wads ( Walters Wonder Wads ). Try out some hard veggie wads with those maxi's. When I do shoot cast lead conicals ( its not often ) in a sidelock or inline, especially with T7 powder, I prefer the veggie wads over the felt wads. I use the felt wads with jacketed bullets. But thats what works for me, its not the " right way " or the only way. Try both & see how you & your gun like them.
In my .40‘s and .45’s I default to the veggie wads or card wads.
 
In the olden days, 70s and 80s it became widely known among the precision handloaders and shooters that the base of the bullet played the bigger role in accuracy than the nose…felt wads or card wads between powder and bullet/ball got popular enough for muzzleloaders that they began to sell ready made wads…felt wads improved accuracy in virtually every one of my muzzleloaders.
I use a prelubed wad to minimize the chances of starting a brush fire with a smoldering felt wad here in Nevada.
 
In the olden days, 70s and 80s it became widely known among the precision handloaders and shooters that the base of the bullet played the bigger role in accuracy than the nose…felt wads or card wads between powder and bullet/ball got popular enough for muzzleloaders that they began to sell ready made wads…felt wads improved accuracy in virtually every one of my muzzleloaders.
I use a prelubed wad to minimize the chances of starting a brush fire with a smoldering felt wad here in Nevada.

I'm an old smoke pole shooter from back during those times and I never heard of it until the last couple of days. Guess I was living a sheltered life. I never correlated with other ML fans much back then and I just used what worked for me at the time.

I plan on ordering some of those this week. Excited to give them a try.

I gotta say that I have learned a lot just since I joined this forum a couple days ago. Lots of very knowledgeable ML people on here. Had I known that, I would have been on here sooner.

Thank you for the valuable information.
 
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I'm an old smoke pole shooter from back during those times and I never heard of it until the last couple of days. Guess I was living a sheltered life. I never correlated with other ML fans much back then and I just used what worked for me at the time.

I plan on ordering some of those this week. Excited to give them a try.

I gotta say that I have learned a lot just since I joined this forum a couple days ago. Lots of very knowledgeable ML people on here. Had I known that, I would have been on here sooner.

Thank you for the valuable information.
Forsythe’s book on Sporting Rifles from the 1850s reappeared at that time 80s…he was touting very slow twist barrels to allow the use of “stout” charges without the ball stripping the rifling...this is tough on patches….he touted “flat“ trajectories and close range high stopping energy with round balls.

I have Don Getz and Hoppy Hopkins barrels among others that are 1:75 twist 54 cal that shoot phenomenally with 140 grs…this load would be impossible without a felt wad to save the patch from that size and duration of the “blow torch”…70 grs for every day loads and 140 grs for antlers at 150 yds
 
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Tried this back a couple of months ago with a 54 caliber TC White Mountain carbine and TC Maxi hunter conicals.
The difference I seen at 50 yards was with the felt patch between powder and bullet resulted in impact 3 to 4 inches higher than when I didn't use them. So I could see how at 100 yards this could be a game changer.
 
Tried this back a couple of months ago with a 54 caliber TC White Mountain carbine and TC Maxi hunter conicals.
The difference I seen at 50 yards was with the felt patch between powder and bullet resulted in impact 3 to 4 inches higher than when I didn't use them. So I could see how at 100 yards this could be a game changer.

That is substantial for sure.
 
Tried this back a couple of months ago with a 54 caliber TC White Mountain carbine and TC Maxi hunter conicals.
The difference I seen at 50 yards was with the felt patch between powder and bullet resulted in impact 3 to 4 inches higher than when I didn't use them. So I could see how at 100 yards this could be a game changer.
Aside from apparent trajectory (or at least point of impact) what did the wads do for your group size?
 
For you fellas that have used 1/8" wool wads in a .50 caliber ML, how do make sure they go down the barrel straight and not wad up?

Also, is using a .54 wad not going to try to wad up?
 
For you fellas that have used 1/8" wool wads in a .50 caliber ML, how do make sure they go down the barrel straight and not wad up?

Also, is using a .54 wad not going to try to wad up?
I just center them and start them with my thumb, push them down on the powder charge with the loading road and then load the bullet. Easier to do than it is to describe. Unless you’re loading. .45 wads into .40 rifles. I do it all the time but it’s a bit trickier.
 
I was just using those today in a new sml to shoot lead bullets. Big improvement over no wad.
Lewis once said he thought the,cards might stick to the base of the bullet but I haven’t seen any evidence of that. I am religious about wiping any lube from the base of the bullet… wads, in the 40 are tricky burgers and an oversized card is not so thats the way I’m headed,,,
 
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