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I have never ever gotten a package from the PO when the tracking# said it was suppose to come.
UPS on the other hand has always been on time.
UPS on the other hand has always been on time.
A New Flintlock - My First
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patocazador
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My gun didn't show up today although it left a town 25 miles from here at 4:45 AM today. The postal guy said it has to go to Tampa first and then back here. He said maybe tomorrow.
No wonder they're losing money every day. Travel 170 miles to net 25 miles .. that makes a lot of sense. :say whhhhhat:
No wonder they're losing money every day. Travel 170 miles to net 25 miles .. that makes a lot of sense. :say whhhhhat:
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Same thing here. If I mail a letter to Salida which is just 25 miles to the south of me it goes to Denver first which is 100 miles north of me.
Post office is a joke.
Post office is a joke.
patocazador
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Ocelot, you're right. But usually UPS or Fed-Ex deliver it to the final post office. Then the local guy brings it out.
The USPS seems to have it all balled up with their regional hubs that everything has to go through.
I live right in the middle of Orlando, Tampa, and Gainesville. They are all the same mileage from me. If I mail a letter to the next town that's 15 miles away, it goes to Tampa then Orlando and then to that town. It's a 210 mile circular route to go a net of 15 miles. That is not a cost-saving measure!
PS: I just checked the tracking again and it said "Out for delivery" so maybe I'll get it today.
The USPS seems to have it all balled up with their regional hubs that everything has to go through.
I live right in the middle of Orlando, Tampa, and Gainesville. They are all the same mileage from me. If I mail a letter to the next town that's 15 miles away, it goes to Tampa then Orlando and then to that town. It's a 210 mile circular route to go a net of 15 miles. That is not a cost-saving measure!
PS: I just checked the tracking again and it said "Out for delivery" so maybe I'll get it today.
patocazador
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Well, it finally showed up about 30 minutes ago. Boy, is it long. :lol: It is also very light. It weighs 6.9 lbs. The barrel and furniture are in the white all polished up and there are a few scuffed spots and minor dents in the stock. The scuffs should polish out. I'll probably add to the dents when I take it hunting. The rear sight has a very small notch for target shooting. I'm going to deepen and widen it for hunting with my old eyes. The pinkish colored ramrod has to get darker, probably by staining.
Will it hurt to dry fire it to check for sparks and to get used to it so I won't flinch?
Also, I want to install a front swivel through the tenon of the middle thimble. What is the desired direction of removing the pins? Left to right or vice versa?
Will it hurt to dry fire it to check for sparks and to get used to it so I won't flinch?
Also, I want to install a front swivel through the tenon of the middle thimble. What is the desired direction of removing the pins? Left to right or vice versa?
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Dry firing doesn't hurt a flintlock, but it wears out the flint. Put some powder in the pan if you're trying to get used to the flash.
patocazador
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I just "dry fired" it with 3 gr. of 4FG in the pan. It won't hold any more than that. In fact, 2 1/2 gr. is probably the right amount.
It wasn't that bad. I was expecting much worse and flinched due to anticipated fireworks. Now that I know it's just a slight distraction, I'm sure I can ignore it.
This is going to be fun!!
I measured the bore and the land diameter is .458". The groove diameter is .472". What size ball is best? .440 seems small. I may see if .451 will work. I don't have any .445 balls or mold.
It wasn't that bad. I was expecting much worse and flinched due to anticipated fireworks. Now that I know it's just a slight distraction, I'm sure I can ignore it.
This is going to be fun!!
I measured the bore and the land diameter is .458". The groove diameter is .472". What size ball is best? .440 seems small. I may see if .451 will work. I don't have any .445 balls or mold.
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Loading the pan to just below the touch hole usually works best. Never cover the hole.
patocazador
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That's what I did but 3 gr. by weight filled the entire trough and then some. The touch hole is high enough so it would be difficult to put too much powder in and still close the frizzen all the way.
I need to get a flintlock tool and a brush .... and grow about 4 inches taller to load the long thing.
It's 56 1/2" long. My eyes aren't that tall.
I need to get a flintlock tool and a brush .... and grow about 4 inches taller to load the long thing.
It's 56 1/2" long. My eyes aren't that tall.
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Shorty...
Randy Johnson
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There is one sure way to eliminate flinching, not just with a flintlock, but with any firearm. It takes practice, and it takes discipline. If you can train yourself to do it, I guarantee you will never flinch. And you will probably shoot better as well.
When your sights are on target, apply pressure to the trigger. As the sights drift off - and they will -, hold that pressure but do not increase it. As the sights drift back where you want them again apply more pressure. Continue the procedure until, without knowing exactly when it is going to happen, the rifle fires. It should be a complete surprise when the gun fires, and the sights will be on target. It’ll all be over before you have a chance to flinch. A good way to practice is to make a few wood flints so you don’t use up those expensive real ones.
Forget that click, boom often associated with flintlocks. With a good lock (and it looks like you have one) there should be no noticeable difference in lock time between a flintlock and a percussion. My main go-to rifle for matches has a Chambers round face lock with a hammer throw that seems twice as long as locks on other rifles I’ve had. Even so, I never perceive any lag as long as I’ve done my part.
Doing my part is pretty simple. 1. Prime the pan. 2. The really, really important part, PICK THE TOUCHOLE to make sure it’s clear. I usually like to make sure the pick is well into the charge to make sure it didn’t get crunched too tight when the ball was rammed home.
It’s a matter of personal choice, but if that was my rifle I wouldn’t install sling swivels on it. They look okay on muskets and some Germanic rifles but they are really out of place on that style of rifle. There are guys out there who make slings that fasten on the rifle by way of loops on each end of the sling. I’d at least consider something along those lines.
As far as removing the pins is concerned, I would be really surprised if there is any taper to them. It shouldn’t make any difference which way you tape them out.
Your best bet for balls is going to be .440 or .445.
One thing I’d do early in the game is get a different tip for the ramrod. Track of the Wolf (and others) sell a tip that is just a button. The advantage is that you won’t have something sticking out past the muzzle to snag on brush.
For the length problem go the route of a lot of chunk shooters. Some build a box to stand on, and some dig a hole in the ground for the butt of the rifle to sit in. No kidding, they really do. Just kidding about you doing it though.
When your sights are on target, apply pressure to the trigger. As the sights drift off - and they will -, hold that pressure but do not increase it. As the sights drift back where you want them again apply more pressure. Continue the procedure until, without knowing exactly when it is going to happen, the rifle fires. It should be a complete surprise when the gun fires, and the sights will be on target. It’ll all be over before you have a chance to flinch. A good way to practice is to make a few wood flints so you don’t use up those expensive real ones.
Forget that click, boom often associated with flintlocks. With a good lock (and it looks like you have one) there should be no noticeable difference in lock time between a flintlock and a percussion. My main go-to rifle for matches has a Chambers round face lock with a hammer throw that seems twice as long as locks on other rifles I’ve had. Even so, I never perceive any lag as long as I’ve done my part.
Doing my part is pretty simple. 1. Prime the pan. 2. The really, really important part, PICK THE TOUCHOLE to make sure it’s clear. I usually like to make sure the pick is well into the charge to make sure it didn’t get crunched too tight when the ball was rammed home.
It’s a matter of personal choice, but if that was my rifle I wouldn’t install sling swivels on it. They look okay on muskets and some Germanic rifles but they are really out of place on that style of rifle. There are guys out there who make slings that fasten on the rifle by way of loops on each end of the sling. I’d at least consider something along those lines.
As far as removing the pins is concerned, I would be really surprised if there is any taper to them. It shouldn’t make any difference which way you tape them out.
Your best bet for balls is going to be .440 or .445.
One thing I’d do early in the game is get a different tip for the ramrod. Track of the Wolf (and others) sell a tip that is just a button. The advantage is that you won’t have something sticking out past the muzzle to snag on brush.
For the length problem go the route of a lot of chunk shooters. Some build a box to stand on, and some dig a hole in the ground for the butt of the rifle to sit in. No kidding, they really do. Just kidding about you doing it though.
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