Knurling Bullets

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In one of my other threads I was asked about knurling my bullets, at that time I was unaware of knurling. Tonight I bought two bastard files to give it a try.

My question is are you guys knurling every bullet you shoot in a sabot? In my original post I was shooting XTPs. I picked up some Barnes Expanders and SSTs and was curious if you’d recommend knurling them as well.
How I try to achieve consistent knurling when I think knurling might help. I use 2 files. I found some weights that I use. I just want a lightly "textured" surface. May not be the right way but I feel better about the consistency of the knurl.
 
One of my winter projects is making a bullet knurler. I have about all the materials ready to build.
Criteria:
#1- Easy to use
#2- Repetitive accurate results.
#3- Adjustable knurl position on projectile. At < X > length.
#4- Micrometer stop setting for knurl tooling. Controlling depth of knurl.
If successful , of course I’ll post.
Have made other previous versions. Still refining.
 
How I try to achieve consistent knurling when I think knurling might help. I use 2 files. I found some weights that I use. I just want a lightly "textured" surface. May not be the right way but I feel better about the consistency of the knurl.
I wrap (mark) the base file with two pieces of electrical tape to establish a consistent distance that each bullet is rolled. A .452” bullet has a circumference of 1.42”. I use a 3” long roll (tape to tape) so that each bullet gets two full revolutions.
 
I wrap (mark) the base file with two pieces of electrical tape to establish a consistent distance that each bullet is rolled. A .452” bullet has a circumference of 1.42”. I use a 3” long roll (tape to tape) so that each bullet gets two full revolutions.
I mark the bottom file for 1 revolution. I put the weight on top of the file then all I do is push the file on the bullet. I try not to get to complicated with it....lol....
 
Thanks for the conversation it’s been helpful.

How I try to achieve consistent knurling when I think knurling might help. I use 2 files. I found some weights that I use. I just want a lightly "textured" surface. May not be the right way but I feel better about the consistency of the knurl.

How heavy is the weight you are using? I actually thought of doing the same thing with a weight plate to get consistent pressure.
 
Thanks for the conversation it’s been helpful.



How heavy is the weight you are using? I actually thought of doing the same thing with a weight plate to get consistent pressure.
I don't know. I never weighed it. I just cut a piece of scrap steel at work.
 
The OP (in this post and others) says he is trying to develop a load for whitetails at “up to 200 yards.” I think that fits the definition on traditional hunting ranges nicely. Knurling his bullets won’t significantly increase his dispersion (and it may significantly improve it) at 200 yards.

When I measure my knurled bullets they are within a thousandth of each other. That’s more than consistent enough for good groups. There are other variables that will have a much greater affect on dispersion. If it makes someone feel better they could run their knurled bullets through a sizer. But I don’t think it would make any difference.
Ignorance is bliss except when your ignorant on facts ,(YOU are) ! Sizer by Hankins in a specified caliber reduces a bullet (store bought jacket or cast (I always order over sized )is utilized to reduce an oversized projectile most times (on purpose ) for a perfect fit to your particular bore there for making absolutely unnecessary (knurling) for sabots with anything you stick in it /same for bore fit . Except when casting for paper patched (530 gr) for the Sharps 74 45-70 (444) . A little education on sizing is always beneficial /Ed
 
I knurl my NoExcuses 250 gr. bullets with a MMP sabot with no problem. If I don't, my groups are much larger. But once again, that's what works for "MY" ML. MR-X .45.
 

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All of us end up doing what works for us as individuals, it's good to have a choice or a way to tweak, I have a friend he's not on this site but he is very much a proponent of knurling, we go back and forth a little bit when we talk about it,if you think about it when you decide to knurl bullets it is of course to improve your groups consistency,, I have the last couple of years become a plastic shooting machine not because I set out to do that and I don't even like the word plastic, I sure don't like the French word I can't even pronounce it and no offense if you're French,, nevertheless I find myself successful day in and day out ,my plastic loads all shoot less than an inch most of them hover at a half to 3/4 and most of them do that with at least four to five shots not three I don't say that to stick my chest out,, I never knurl,, if I feel the need to because my bullet is too loose from the plastic I switch bullets or I switch plastic again if I was just dead set on using a specific bullet I guess I would do whatever it takes to get that specific bullet to shoot its best ,I would knurl,,, since I have so many bullet choices I just switched bullets to give me the tighter fit,,, I do not necessarily have a better verbal stance or argument or position but I have over a dozen rifles today right now that hover at a half inch to 3/4 with plastic loads that I do not have to touch the bullets only load them in the plastic and shoot,,, that screams at me,,,,,, again knurling to me is a practice we have developed as shooters to overcome poor quality in what we're sold. I am able to achieve what knurling is trying to accomplish by simply switching bullets ,and by adjusting my load, the powder charge.
 
Okay Knut long is defined as raising a pattern of points on a round object making it larger in diameter. When you use files for this are you using single cut files with the cuts of the file going opposite directions or double cut files? Another item to consider is that your knurled area is only going to be as deep as the cut/grooves of the files. Trying to go any deeper than that is a wasted effort.
 

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