ENDS THE STUCK BREECH PLUG BLUES

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I've been cleaning my CVA plugs and drying them well afterwards, then just screwing them in without anything on the threads and they come right out of the V2s using fingers after shooting. On the Kodiak which requires a removal tool the plug still comes out without any problem. There is minimal sooting on any of these plugs and the breech threads. I've tried the tape and different sealers designed for the plugs but have found that things are less problematic if I clean the guns right away when getting home from shooting them and I use only the BH209 powder if that even matters. I clean guns at the end of the hunting season if they've been fired and even after sitting for several days after having been fired the plugs don't fight.

Believe me It matters, Try that same routine with Real Blackpowder, or Triple Seven, You will have a Seized Plug
 
I experimented with a cheap harbor freight sonic cleaner for cleaning breech plugs and rifle bolts. It worked well. When it wore out I but a better and larger unit on e-bay. Well worth the money foe any small parts.
 
Nothing against smokers but nothing necessary with smokeless but I still use wd40 ptfe drylube.
 
I’m trying to use Permatex on a TC Pro Hunter FX. I went through the process of lapping in the plug and all seems to be well. I picked up some permatex to seal the breech plug, but I’m having a heck of a time getting the breech plug snug. I used my fingers to wipe off excess permatex, but most of it migrates backward as I tighten it down. It collects on the back o-ring to the point that I can’t tighten it enough to cock the hammer. Should I put the sealant on just the nose s of the breech plug? Am I doing something wrong? I was also wondering if anyone had a trick to keep a Knight Disc Extreme clean when lowering a breech plug with the sealant on it. It gets get on the gun where the bolt is and gets all of the Lehigh primer adapter. I’m sure it’s my error, but I’m just seeking a little advice if possible. Thanks for the help.
 
Blackhorn. I’ve used Teflon tape in the past, but that still gives me a little trouble with the TC. I’m not a very good follower of if it ain’t broke....don’t fix it.
 
The reason I ask is for the Knight DISC, since I started BH209 I have only used CLP oil on the breachplug threads in my Knight DISC and have never had an issue with a stuck plug or leakage.

Not bashing Permatex but telling what has worked very well for me for several years.
 
I’m trying to use Permatex on a TC Pro Hunter FX. I went through the process of lapping in the plug and all seems to be well. I picked up some permatex to seal the breech plug, but I’m having a heck of a time getting the breech plug snug. I used my fingers to wipe off excess permatex, but most of it migrates backward as I tighten it down. It collects on the back o-ring to the point that I can’t tighten it enough to cock the hammer. Should I put the sealant on just the nose s of the breech plug? Am I doing something wrong? I was also wondering if anyone had a trick to keep a Knight Disc Extreme clean when lowering a breech plug with the sealant on it. It gets get on the gun where the bolt is and gets all of the Lehigh primer adapter. I’m sure it’s my error, but I’m just seeking a little advice if possible. Thanks for the help.
Some threaded connections are tighter than others. There is a standard they follow for them but, if the female thread is right on the minor tolerance, and the male thread is right on major diameter tolerance, you’re gonna have an unusually tight fit. Try as @halloflin suggested with the CLP oil.
 
On my V2 CVAs I have stopped using the tape or any sealant and my plugs come out clean threaded. My Kodiak needs a wrap of thread but only one.
 
I 67 and hunted bp with my knight and vintage 58 cal enfield and never had a plug that it couldn't remove with a hand tool easily. I clean them in the kitchen with what is available.
liquid soap ,hot water for oil on the breach plug I have even used butter but usually a cooking spray. this last season I used original pam on the plug in my cva. I fail to see any problem with a stuck plug ,what are you doing?
the pam I spray down the barrel and wipe the drips off .them brush the outside with the same napkin. I been doing this for 30 years. rifle gets warmed up by the fireplace after cleaning if no fire I make sure I get it hot using hotter water to clean and it air dries inside.
I made an error with the breach plug this year. I was standing in a foot of snow and ready to hunt and had trouble putting the cap on. the breach plug was only in a few turns and the knight was charged. so I took my tool and tightened it atleast a quarter inch . then went hunting.
I figured it just moved the bullet up when tightening or packed it good. it fired fine 3 days later when I unloaded it. I must have forgot to tighten the plug after cleaning and didn't notice when loading.
Any concerns with getting Pam spray in ur ignition hole blocking the breech plug from firing?
 
I have been using the permatex on my 2 Optima V2's since reading about it here. Something about this is bothering me though. After last range session before season cleaning, drying with a hair dryer until metal is too hot to touch, reassembly after metal cools with permatex as the normal routine.

Took them out the day before season and loaded up as normal. Shot a doe on doe day. Now here is where it gets interesting, or bothersome.

After shooting the doe, I cleaned the rifle that evening as I normally do after shooting that day. There appeared to be rust on the barrel and breech plug on the surface just at the end of the threads on the barrel and in some of the thread grooves on the plug. It was rust as it didn't wipe off and had to be removed with a SS brush. Not pitting was observed as it was just a rust stain.

Last cleaning was as normal, and dried overnight before reassembly, then in the safe for 5 weeks before MZ season.

It appears the permatex is not lubricating, but rather just sealing. I don't like rust so I'm looking for possible answers for this result. Any ideas?

Yes, the permatex does seal the breech, does allow for no sticking of the plug (requires plug wrench for removal after weeks of sitting), is somewhat messy in application, but cleans off easily after use.

What other options are there for the Optima V2 for the breech plug lubrication/protection?

Thanks in advance.
 
X-Treme Synthetic Food Grade Grease just a little on the threads. Cleans up easily. Or Teflon tape if need be. Stuck plugs should be history.

I started using Teflon tape on sidelock nipples nearly 50 years ago. Teflon was a new product. People thought I was nuts (it worked but they still think I'm nuts).
 
vaguru,

I'd pass on the permatex and use a simple wrap of Teflon tape on the threads, primarily at the powder end of the plug. One single layer slightly overlapping to mid-way on the plug's threads. When you're going to clean the gun, remove the plug and before you use anything in the barrel take a thick shotgun cleaning rod, assemble it and drop it down the muzzle, then attach a 16 gauge brush and turn the rod while pulling the brush into the threads of the breech. This will turn any tape fouling to the outside of the breech chamber where you can reach to wipe it off. Remove the brush and rod, then do your cleaning sequence. I do this if I tape a plug and once this step has been completed and the gun clean per usual but before its re-assembled I give a quick shot of brake cleaner into the breech to really blow out anything left in there. Then I do the final assembly and applications of oil or rust retardant. On a side note, I store my guns with the plugs in a cloth sack that hangs on the barrel letting the scope stop the tie strings. I give the barrel a couple passes with a WD40 rust retardant on a patch. When I'm ready to shoot again I run an alcohol patch thru the barrel a couple of licks and put the plug in and fire the fouling primers and I'm good to go.
 
vaguru,

I'd pass on the permatex and use a simple wrap of Teflon tape on the threads, primarily at the powder end of the plug. One single layer slightly overlapping to mid-way on the plug's threads. When you're going to clean the gun, remove the plug and before you use anything in the barrel take a thick shotgun cleaning rod, assemble it and drop it down the muzzle, then attach a 16 gauge brush and turn the rod while pulling the brush into the threads of the breech. This will turn any tape fouling to the outside of the breech chamber where you can reach to wipe it off. Remove the brush and rod, then do your cleaning sequence. I do this if I tape a plug and once this step has been completed and the gun clean per usual but before its re-assembled I give a quick shot of brake cleaner into the breech to really blow out anything left in there. Then I do the final assembly and applications of oil or rust retardant. On a side note, I store my guns with the plugs in a cloth sack that hangs on the barrel letting the scope stop the tie strings. I give the barrel a couple passes with a WD40 rust retardant on a patch. When I'm ready to shoot again I run an alcohol patch thru the barrel a couple of licks and put the plug in and fire the fouling primers and I'm good to go.

That sounds very good, I'll give it a try next cleaning. Curious as to what oil or rust retardant you use. Thanks
 
WD40 long term corrosion resistant formula. Smaller can, a bit spendier. Worth it. WD makes several specialty formulas and this product is one of them.
 
WD40 long term corrosion resistant formula. Smaller can, a bit spendier. Worth it. WD makes several specialty formulas and this product is one of them.

Thanks I will pick some up.
 

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