Ok, just to qualify this...I'M A FREAK!!!! I over think, over do, over process, and pretty much make a mountain out of a mole hill. Regardless I am on a quest to make a 300yd elk killer muzzle loader. What are the requirements....???? Goal is MOA accuracy and 1000lb minimum FT LBS on target. Maximum yardage determined by ft lb of energy. I also want to qualify this is geared towards elk....because if you can kill an elk.....you can kill a deer at half that distance. I would prefer to stay with 50cal as it is legal in more states. I am also aware the 45 cal seems to be the full bore champion, and I am not opposed to going that route if I have to. Another reason for full bore is I want to install a muzzle brake.
I'm new to muzzle loaders (2years) and only have my current Bighorn. I figured out real quick I needed more accuracy and better sights to kill a bull at 300yds. NOT interested in a debate on if I should be trying to kill a bull at 300yds, but happy to discuss and work on how to kill one at 300yds!! I found out instantly...my rear peep with factory front on a Knight Big Horn was not going to work. The front was so huge I was limited to about a 200yd shot. I am not interested in guessing where the bullet will land. I have a Lyman Globe with some shaver inserts to install after I'm done with this load development.
I have done a lot of research and testing to find out what my rifle will do up to this point. My rifle is at best a 1.5"/100yd with a scope...about a 3" with the factory front and a Wilson FP peep rear. Not even close to what I need for my goal. These are full loads...not reduced...it requires full load to meet the ft lb on target requirement. Shooting 300gr minimum bullet weight or very close to that. Not interested in a 250-260gr bullet as it is for Elk. My stock rifle was really not accurate enough, but after bedding the action it tightened up to its current accuracy. (Happy to cover bedding an action...super easy...and anyone can do it.) I'm currently shooting Sabot rounds (Barnes 290 at 2100), but those are not compatible with a muzzle brake.
I tested lots of different combinations of Sabot, bullets, powder....bottom line it wont shoot under 1.5" at the velocity I want/need. I now need under 1"/100yds at max velocity and full bore seems to offer that potential. So does knurling bullets to stick to sabots for under sized bullets. BUUUT...I want a brake on it...so full bore ist he way to go. If I cant make the full bore work then I'll se if the sabot gets better with a knurled bullet.
Please give me input both critical and positive. Looking for any information available, but I would ask you to clarify if this what you have done or what you have heard. Easy to tell someone how to fix something you read about on the internet......not so easy to spend hours and major bucks to find out yourself. Not trying to be a *censored*.....just calling out the obvious of todays world.
Is the only way to post photos is to send them to Photobucket and then post here? Appears there is no way to just post pics here.
Here we go!!!!
I'm new to muzzle loaders (2years) and only have my current Bighorn. I figured out real quick I needed more accuracy and better sights to kill a bull at 300yds. NOT interested in a debate on if I should be trying to kill a bull at 300yds, but happy to discuss and work on how to kill one at 300yds!! I found out instantly...my rear peep with factory front on a Knight Big Horn was not going to work. The front was so huge I was limited to about a 200yd shot. I am not interested in guessing where the bullet will land. I have a Lyman Globe with some shaver inserts to install after I'm done with this load development.
I have done a lot of research and testing to find out what my rifle will do up to this point. My rifle is at best a 1.5"/100yd with a scope...about a 3" with the factory front and a Wilson FP peep rear. Not even close to what I need for my goal. These are full loads...not reduced...it requires full load to meet the ft lb on target requirement. Shooting 300gr minimum bullet weight or very close to that. Not interested in a 250-260gr bullet as it is for Elk. My stock rifle was really not accurate enough, but after bedding the action it tightened up to its current accuracy. (Happy to cover bedding an action...super easy...and anyone can do it.) I'm currently shooting Sabot rounds (Barnes 290 at 2100), but those are not compatible with a muzzle brake.
I tested lots of different combinations of Sabot, bullets, powder....bottom line it wont shoot under 1.5" at the velocity I want/need. I now need under 1"/100yds at max velocity and full bore seems to offer that potential. So does knurling bullets to stick to sabots for under sized bullets. BUUUT...I want a brake on it...so full bore ist he way to go. If I cant make the full bore work then I'll se if the sabot gets better with a knurled bullet.
Please give me input both critical and positive. Looking for any information available, but I would ask you to clarify if this what you have done or what you have heard. Easy to tell someone how to fix something you read about on the internet......not so easy to spend hours and major bucks to find out yourself. Not trying to be a *censored*.....just calling out the obvious of todays world.
Is the only way to post photos is to send them to Photobucket and then post here? Appears there is no way to just post pics here.
Here we go!!!!