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Oh yes I will beeswax I have cuz I make my own lube for the bullets I make
Very very very very very very stuck breech plug
- Thread starter turtlelonghair
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Well I'm back again another dilemma I've got a 54 caliber inline CVA and I'm wanting to shoot round balls I make a 530 round ball what size patch does these things take I ordered a .015 and had to drive it the full length with the ramrod and Hammer something ain't really right here all input is welcome
Matthew323
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Successful round ball shooting, or patched ball shooting to be factually correct, requires that the shooter know what the exact bore diameter, and the exact groove diameter of the barrel to be shot is.
Without knowing the exact diameters, a shooter is just guessing at trying to find an accurate load.
At least 25% of the pre-cut patches out on the market are not the thickness that the label say that they should be.
Most of the time, the patches end up being 0.001"-0.002" thinner than the label states. Occasionally, rarely, the patches will be 0.001"-0015" thicker than the label states.
Thicker is pretty rare because thicker material costs a manufacturer more money, while thinner costs less money, which just adds to the profit margin.
Slugging an inline rifle barrel is simplicity itself. Just drive an oversized piece of lead through the bore from the breech end of the barrel using a large diameter, straight grain, hardwood dowel. The dowel should fill the bore as completely as possible. A second choice would be a bore filling brass rod. A 2 pound dead blow hammer is a good choice to drive the lead slug through the bore so that accurate measurements of the land-to-land diameter (bore) & the groove-to-groove diameter may be taken with either a micrometer, or a vernier caliper.
Once both diameters are accurately known, then a ball diameter may be chosen from commercially manufactured swaged lead balls (Hornaday & Speer), or home cast balls as sold by The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium, Track of the Wolf, and others. Or, a ball mold may be purchased, new or used, from any number of manufacturers such as NEI, RCBS, Lee Precision, Lyman, Moose, ballmoulds.com (U.K.), and several others.
The crown of the barrel is absolutely critical for easy patched ball shooting. A crown that is perfect for sabots, and lead conicals, is seldom perfect for easy insertion of a patched ball into the barrel. This is especially true if a shooter intends to cut his patches at the muzzle.
Virtually all modern rifle crowns are machined at an angle to the axis of the bore. This is true for muzzleloading barrels, just as it is for centerfire barrels.
For best patched ball shooting, especially ease of inserting the pre-cut patch & ball into the bore with a short starter, the crown must be radiused instead of angled.
A radiused crown will allow the tightly patched ball to, for lack of a better term, flow into the bore without in any way snagging on the lands.
Once past the crown 5"-6" down the bore, even a very tightly patched ball should smoothly slide the balance of the way down onto the powder charge.
This has been my experience for 25 years of patched ball shooting with 3 different flintlock longrifles in .45 caliber, .50 caliber, and .62 caliber.
The exact same principles apply to shallow groove, medium twist-to-fast twist barrels designed for sabots and lead conicals; that someone wants to shoot a patched ball out of.
Over on the American Longrifles Forum, many of the "Old Timers" that post there got their start with a Thompson/Center percussion Hawken rifle, which has 0.005" deep, square bottom, button rifled grooves.
Radius the crown on a Thompson/Center rifle, and a patch/ball combination that on paper measures 0.018" thicker than common sense says should work because it is too thick, will actually work because the fabric will compress far more than most people believe is possible.
Successful patched ball shooting is not about luck!!!!
What it is about is knowing the exact bore & groove diameters; having a smooth crown that will not snag the patch upon insertion into the bore; picking/casting a proper size 100% pure lead ball; & completely filling the grooves of the barrel with a strong, tightly woven, 100% cotton (or linen) patch.
Without knowing the exact diameters, a shooter is just guessing at trying to find an accurate load.
At least 25% of the pre-cut patches out on the market are not the thickness that the label say that they should be.
Most of the time, the patches end up being 0.001"-0.002" thinner than the label states. Occasionally, rarely, the patches will be 0.001"-0015" thicker than the label states.
Thicker is pretty rare because thicker material costs a manufacturer more money, while thinner costs less money, which just adds to the profit margin.
Slugging an inline rifle barrel is simplicity itself. Just drive an oversized piece of lead through the bore from the breech end of the barrel using a large diameter, straight grain, hardwood dowel. The dowel should fill the bore as completely as possible. A second choice would be a bore filling brass rod. A 2 pound dead blow hammer is a good choice to drive the lead slug through the bore so that accurate measurements of the land-to-land diameter (bore) & the groove-to-groove diameter may be taken with either a micrometer, or a vernier caliper.
Once both diameters are accurately known, then a ball diameter may be chosen from commercially manufactured swaged lead balls (Hornaday & Speer), or home cast balls as sold by The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium, Track of the Wolf, and others. Or, a ball mold may be purchased, new or used, from any number of manufacturers such as NEI, RCBS, Lee Precision, Lyman, Moose, ballmoulds.com (U.K.), and several others.
The crown of the barrel is absolutely critical for easy patched ball shooting. A crown that is perfect for sabots, and lead conicals, is seldom perfect for easy insertion of a patched ball into the barrel. This is especially true if a shooter intends to cut his patches at the muzzle.
Virtually all modern rifle crowns are machined at an angle to the axis of the bore. This is true for muzzleloading barrels, just as it is for centerfire barrels.
For best patched ball shooting, especially ease of inserting the pre-cut patch & ball into the bore with a short starter, the crown must be radiused instead of angled.
A radiused crown will allow the tightly patched ball to, for lack of a better term, flow into the bore without in any way snagging on the lands.
Once past the crown 5"-6" down the bore, even a very tightly patched ball should smoothly slide the balance of the way down onto the powder charge.
This has been my experience for 25 years of patched ball shooting with 3 different flintlock longrifles in .45 caliber, .50 caliber, and .62 caliber.
The exact same principles apply to shallow groove, medium twist-to-fast twist barrels designed for sabots and lead conicals; that someone wants to shoot a patched ball out of.
Over on the American Longrifles Forum, many of the "Old Timers" that post there got their start with a Thompson/Center percussion Hawken rifle, which has 0.005" deep, square bottom, button rifled grooves.
Radius the crown on a Thompson/Center rifle, and a patch/ball combination that on paper measures 0.018" thicker than common sense says should work because it is too thick, will actually work because the fabric will compress far more than most people believe is possible.
Successful patched ball shooting is not about luck!!!!
What it is about is knowing the exact bore & groove diameters; having a smooth crown that will not snag the patch upon insertion into the bore; picking/casting a proper size 100% pure lead ball; & completely filling the grooves of the barrel with a strong, tightly woven, 100% cotton (or linen) patch.
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Well doc I guess that told me something my gun probably ain't made for round balls
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Well doc my rifleman goes all the way to the end so I guess no round balls
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roundball barrels tend to have twice or more rifling groove depth than a conical/sabot barrel
Matthew323
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Never knew the beeswax trick for removing a stuck bolt. Thanks to those that brought it to turtlelonghair's (& my) attention.
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Well guys appreciate everybody's help finally got the breech plug out today everything looks good just loss of lot of blood now where can I find a 209 conversion kit for an Apollo CVA 97
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THIS
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deercreek products has the conversion kit in stock
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Yeah I've seen deer Creek had him deerman appreciate the help they call them tomorrow
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Yep sure do HC want to convert to 209
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And number 11 is what I got out and want a conversion kit for 209 thanks
Try contacting the guy that said he would give you one.
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Hey Okie hog if you're out there give me a holler I got the breech plug out thanks
