pedersoli rifles

[pacanis]

Thats it. I thought he also had a GM breech plug.

Yes, those are pretty good pics.
And the reason I'm a big believer in scalding water and flushing it through the flash hole or nipple.

 

[pacanis]

I just read the recommended load data for the Kentucky .32.
24gr of 3F to start and a max of 40gr of 3F. Perhaps your friend was trying to overdrive the ball with too much powder.

View attachment 30776

The 1:48 twist is perfect for PRB in a .32

It's hard to say.
His idea of accuracy is different than mine anyway. Although I do like an accurate rifle.
He's a benchrest shooter and used to compete. And still builds BR guns.
Both Modern


And muzzleloaders


For all I know he might have been expecting too much out of a Pedersoli
Although knowing him he tried everything.

 

[drpatton]

His idea of accuracy is different than mine anyway.

I worked with a bench rest shooter, and his rifles looked nothing like that. In fact, it had to have a stock with a curvature or rocker of so many degrees. The rifle in the pic looks like a test bed rifle.

It looked more like this one below. As long as the stock wasn't flat on the bottom. It had to have a rocker.

 

[drpatton]

I do like an accurate rifle.

The shooter is about 40 percent, if not 50%, of the ability of the rifle to place shots. Take the shooter out of the equation and all you left is a gun and a mount.

 

[45-70]

I've been out twice with the Gibbs and one of my T/C Renegades at 2 different ranges.

I started at 60 yrds to get my horizontal windage. The 2 days I've been to the range have been windy. I'll have to get over that. There are no perfect days here in PA.

I have the rifle on paper at 100yds, but not tight. I used PP & Greased with 60 gr by vol. of Swiss 3F, 2F & 1.5F. (Out of respect, I used bullets someone sent me. I wanted his bullets to be the first fired out of my rifle). I wanted to see how the rifle reacted to the different powders. Also, this is the first time I can remember using Swiss. I previously used Goex in my Mississippi rifle and Pyrodex in all of my other rifles.

My starting point to find a load is 60gr and I will work it up from there. Some on this forum told me the loads they use and the loads vary. Also. I found shooters use all 3 grain types. I will probably stick with 1.5Fg.

I'm also finding, it's a pain to clean. I probably wouldn't have thought that way, but now, I'm aware of the patent breech and I'm trying my best to keep it clean.

Please understand, this is the first time I shot a real Long Range muzzleloading rifle and I want to get it right.

Since I am now working on a load, I would like some advice on how to do it. I have never done this with such a precision rifle. I have the Mortimer and it seemed easy. It shoots PRBs with a wide load range and that was with Pyrodex. (I have to admit, I wasn't aware of the patent breech on the Pedersoli rifles, so ignorance was bliss).

Take the Gibbs barrel off and nipple out and i am assuming you have a platinum lined nipple, pan or bucket of hot water, dry patch on your jag and put the barrel down breach first work the patch up and down the bore, then dry the bore. berore putting nipple bacck wrap some teflon tape around the threads

 

[pacanis]

I worked with a bench rest shooter, and his rifles looked nothing like that. In fact, it had to have a stock with a curvature or rocker of so many degrees. The rifle in the pic looks like a test bed rifle.

It looked more like this one below. As long as the stock wasn't flat on the bottom. It had to have a rocker.

View attachment 30792

He has that style, too.
It goes by rifle weight and discipline. And range. And rests used. He probably has everything made. Including a couple Pandas he bought and I don't know why. Must have been a good price. Usually he makes his own gun.
Last year he took an older Remington action and made a rifle everyone was using in the seventies shooting .222. Took the magwell out and welded it up to shoot single shot. Like everyone was doing at the time.

The modern rifle I showed was his rail gun. It's a two-piece gun that leaves nothing to chance but the shooter's input. He even poured his own concrete bench at the gun club. Because their concrete benches weren't right, lol. Ten shots 200yds one hole. But like everything, that's his best. I've seen the target and witness sig.

Me? I like more input. I like the feel of the stock against my shoulder.

I keep trying to talk him out of one of his muzzleloaders, but he's not ready to part with any of them yet.

 

[smokepolehall]

Whew he has a Wall full of guns/rifles, but i did not see a good Underhammer. I did see someones Underhammer in a pic, but good god y'all i thought the stock was a Canoe paddle at 1st

 

[drpatton]

assuming you have a platinum lined nipple

The Platinum lined nipple arrived from BACO today. I was using the OEM steel nipple. I called BACO to make sure it would fit the Gibbs. The thread size is the same as T/C and I asked if it would work in a Renegade. He told me it would; It won't. The nipple is too long. T/C uses a short 1/4-28 nipple.

Pedersoli makes a Beryllium nipple for the Gibbs and their other target rifles. Do you know anything about them? What is the difference between the Beryllium & the Platinum?

 

[1874sharpsshooter]

The Platinum lined nipple arrived from BACO today. I was using the OEM steel nipple. I called BACO to make sure it would fit the Gibbs. The thread size is the same as T/C and I asked if it would work in a Renegade. He told me it would; It won't. The nipple is too long. T/C uses a short 1/4-28 nipple.

Pedersoli makes a Beryllium nipple for the Gibbs and their other target rifles. Do you know anything about them? What is the difference between the Beryllium & the Platinum?
View attachment 30805

In my opinion platinum is better and longer lasting

 

[drpatton]

I keep trying to talk him out of one of his muzzleloaders, but he's not ready to part with any of them yet.

They are beautiful.
I don't have that kind of money, so a bench rail gun is even in my dream state.
Like you, I enjoy this. The rifle becomes a part, and an extension of me.

I love the smell of sulfur in the morning.

 

[drpatton]

In my opinion platinum is better and longer lasting

I had to look it up, but I should have remembered, Beryllium is very reactive to oxygen; whereas Platinum is very non-reactive. Platinum is somewhat malleable but strong, making it very ductile.

 

[45-70]

The Platinum lined nipple arrived from BACO today. I was using the OEM steel nipple. I called BACO to make sure it would fit the Gibbs. The thread size is the same as T/C and I asked if it would work in a Renegade. He told me it would; It won't. The nipple is too long. T/C uses a short 1/4-28 nipple.

Pedersoli makes a Beryllium nipple for the Gibbs and their other target rifles. Do you know anything about them? What is the difference between the Beryllium & the Platinum?
View attachment 30805

nope
use the other, you can try them , almost all top shooters in long range use them. Including me

 

[drpatton]

In my opinion, anyone can go to the range, load a magazine and pop off rounds at a target.
On the other hand, Muzzleloading is both an art and a science and therefore, one has to play with it to get the results they want. It's not for everyone. But it is for me...

 

[drpatton]

almost all top shooters in long range use them. Including me

I don't doubt you.
I have found maybe 75%-80% of those on here (including me) have only a working knowledge of this craft. That leaves 20%-25% who have the bulk of the actual knowledge. These people stand out and that is why I ask them the questions. I asked you about the nipples, so in my opinion, you are in this latter group.

p.s. Also understand, my mind doesn't accept statements. I have to work through the concept and theory to understand what it's doing and what is trying to be accomplish. So If I beat a question to death, that is why. I'll ask question from different angles trying to understand the the concept.

 

[45-70]

1000 yd match in North Carolina in first picture , Left to right Joe Hepsworth, 3rd ; Lee Shaver Winner ; Robert Wetzler 2nd and that is me. Second Picture is at Camp Atterbury, bottom center, information on photo.

 

[45-70]

I don't doubt you.
I have found maybe 75%-80% of those on here (including me) have only a working knowledge of this craft. That leaves 20%-25% who have the bulk of the actual knowledge. These people stand out and that is why I ask them the questions. I asked you about the nipples, so in my opinion, you are in this latter group.

I posted some pictures all but one were shooting Ped Gibbs

 

[drpatton]

1000 yd match in North Carolina in first picture , Left to right Joe Hepsworth, 3rd ; Lee Shaver Winner ; Robert Wetzler 2nd and that is me. Second Picture is at Camp Atterbury, bottom center, information on photo.

I don't have that kind of talent, but I will work toward it. I've been muzzleloading since 1983, so I don't mind the journey. So far, it's been a lot of fun. It is also the people you're with, which makes the journey fun.

 

[JIMYJAC]

Interesting read. You said it well, you have to work at it.

 

[Squint]

Now that you mention it, I should lighten the spring in my Brown Bess.
The frizzen is a real pain to rock back and is probably why my new flint only lasted ten shots.

You didn't really ask if anybody thought you should, but I was shooting with a friend that has a pretty high dollar flintlock, and it doesn't even have a spring and yet it worked fairly well. I took the spring out of my Lyman deer Hunter, and it would work too without a spring but of course there was nothing to keep the primer powder in the pan, so I tried a rubber band and that worked fine. I then took the original spring and thinned it to the point of the strengths of the rubber band. The rifle still fires fine and my flints do last longer. This might not be everybody's experience, but it kind of opened my eyes that that spring does not have to be overly tough.
Squint

 

[pacanis]

You didn't really ask if anybody thought you should, but I was shooting with a friend that has a pretty high dollar flintlock, and it doesn't even have a spring and yet it worked fairly well. I took the spring out of my Lyman deer Hunter, and it would work too without a spring but of course there was nothing to keep the primer powder in the pan, so I tried a rubber band and that worked fine. I then took the original spring and thinned it to the point of the strengths of the rubber band. The rifle still fires fine and my flints do last longer. This might not be everybody's experience, but it kind of opened my eyes that that spring does not have to be overly tough.
Squint

I think I've heard that. Surprising I think.
I had thought the frizzen spring had to be perfectly tuned so it doesn't fly back when hit, or bounce back closed when the hammer is all the way down, or move to hard and ruin your flint's edge. But I guess not.

And it turns out the frizzen worked fine just now and feels like it should. I didn't have the lock apart after shooting it last, but I guess just cleaning the outside and wiping it down got it moving like it should. here were some gouges in the spring where the curled part puts pressure on the leaf and moves back and forth, so I polished those out and polished the curled piece.

We'll see how she does next time I take it out.