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- Jan 25, 2023
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Thats it. I thought he also had a GM breech plug.
Yes, those are pretty good pics.
And the reason I'm a big believer in scalding water and flushing it through the flash hole or nipple.
Thats it. I thought he also had a GM breech plug.
I just read the recommended load data for the Kentucky .32.
24gr of 3F to start and a max of 40gr of 3F. Perhaps your friend was trying to overdrive the ball with too much powder.
View attachment 30776
The 1:48 twist is perfect for PRB in a .32
I worked with a bench rest shooter, and his rifles looked nothing like that. In fact, it had to have a stock with a curvature or rocker of so many degrees. The rifle in the pic looks like a test bed rifle.His idea of accuracy is different than mine anyway.
The shooter is about 40 percent, if not 50%, of the ability of the rifle to place shots. Take the shooter out of the equation and all you left is a gun and a mount.I do like an accurate rifle.
Take the Gibbs barrel off and nipple out and i am assuming you have a platinum lined nipple, pan or bucket of hot water, dry patch on your jag and put the barrel down breach first work the patch up and down the bore, then dry the bore. berore putting nipple bacck wrap some teflon tape around the threadsI've been out twice with the Gibbs and one of my T/C Renegades at 2 different ranges.
I started at 60 yrds to get my horizontal windage. The 2 days I've been to the range have been windy. I'll have to get over that. There are no perfect days here in PA.
I have the rifle on paper at 100yds, but not tight. I used PP & Greased with 60 gr by vol. of Swiss 3F, 2F & 1.5F. (Out of respect, I used bullets someone sent me. I wanted his bullets to be the first fired out of my rifle). I wanted to see how the rifle reacted to the different powders. Also, this is the first time I can remember using Swiss. I previously used Goex in my Mississippi rifle and Pyrodex in all of my other rifles.
My starting point to find a load is 60gr and I will work it up from there. Some on this forum told me the loads they use and the loads vary. Also. I found shooters use all 3 grain types. I will probably stick with 1.5Fg.
I'm also finding, it's a pain to clean. I probably wouldn't have thought that way, but now, I'm aware of the patent breech and I'm trying my best to keep it clean.
Please understand, this is the first time I shot a real Long Range muzzleloading rifle and I want to get it right.
Since I am now working on a load, I would like some advice on how to do it. I have never done this with such a precision rifle. I have the Mortimer and it seemed easy. It shoots PRBs with a wide load range and that was with Pyrodex. (I have to admit, I wasn't aware of the patent breech on the Pedersoli rifles, so ignorance was bliss).
I worked with a bench rest shooter, and his rifles looked nothing like that. In fact, it had to have a stock with a curvature or rocker of so many degrees. The rifle in the pic looks like a test bed rifle.
It looked more like this one below. As long as the stock wasn't flat on the bottom. It had to have a rocker.
View attachment 30792
The Platinum lined nipple arrived from BACO today. I was using the OEM steel nipple. I called BACO to make sure it would fit the Gibbs. The thread size is the same as T/C and I asked if it would work in a Renegade. He told me it would; It won't. The nipple is too long. T/C uses a short 1/4-28 nipple.assuming you have a platinum lined nipple
In my opinion platinum is better and longer lastingThe Platinum lined nipple arrived from BACO today. I was using the OEM steel nipple. I called BACO to make sure it would fit the Gibbs. The thread size is the same as T/C and I asked if it would work in a Renegade. He told me it would; It won't. The nipple is too long. T/C uses a short 1/4-28 nipple.
Pedersoli makes a Beryllium nipple for the Gibbs and their other target rifles. Do you know anything about them? What is the difference between the Beryllium & the Platinum?
View attachment 30805
They are beautiful.I keep trying to talk him out of one of his muzzleloaders, but he's not ready to part with any of them yet.
I had to look it up, but I should have remembered, Beryllium is very reactive to oxygen; whereas Platinum is very non-reactive. Platinum is somewhat malleable but strong, making it very ductile.In my opinion platinum is better and longer lasting
nopeThe Platinum lined nipple arrived from BACO today. I was using the OEM steel nipple. I called BACO to make sure it would fit the Gibbs. The thread size is the same as T/C and I asked if it would work in a Renegade. He told me it would; It won't. The nipple is too long. T/C uses a short 1/4-28 nipple.
Pedersoli makes a Beryllium nipple for the Gibbs and their other target rifles. Do you know anything about them? What is the difference between the Beryllium & the Platinum?
View attachment 30805
I don't doubt you.almost all top shooters in long range use them. Including me
I posted some pictures all but one were shooting Ped GibbsI don't doubt you.
I have found maybe 75%-80% of those on here (including me) have only a working knowledge of this craft. That leaves 20%-25% who have the bulk of the actual knowledge. These people stand out and that is why I ask them the questions. I asked you about the nipples, so in my opinion, you are in this latter group.
I don't have that kind of talent, but I will work toward it. I've been muzzleloading since 1983, so I don't mind the journey. So far, it's been a lot of fun. It is also the people you're with, which makes the journey fun.1000 yd match in North Carolina in first picture , Left to right Joe Hepsworth, 3rd ; Lee Shaver Winner ; Robert Wetzler 2nd and that is me. Second Picture is at Camp Atterbury, bottom center, information on photo.
You didn't really ask if anybody thought you should, but I was shooting with a friend that has a pretty high dollar flintlock, and it doesn't even have a spring and yet it worked fairly well. I took the spring out of my Lyman deer Hunter, and it would work too without a spring but of course there was nothing to keep the primer powder in the pan, so I tried a rubber band and that worked fine. I then took the original spring and thinned it to the point of the strengths of the rubber band. The rifle still fires fine and my flints do last longer. This might not be everybody's experience, but it kind of opened my eyes that that spring does not have to be overly tough.Now that you mention it, I should lighten the spring in my Brown Bess.
The frizzen is a real pain to rock back and is probably why my new flint only lasted ten shots.
You didn't really ask if anybody thought you should, but I was shooting with a friend that has a pretty high dollar flintlock, and it doesn't even have a spring and yet it worked fairly well. I took the spring out of my Lyman deer Hunter, and it would work too without a spring but of course there was nothing to keep the primer powder in the pan, so I tried a rubber band and that worked fine. I then took the original spring and thinned it to the point of the strengths of the rubber band. The rifle still fires fine and my flints do last longer. This might not be everybody's experience, but it kind of opened my eyes that that spring does not have to be overly tough.
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